The Umarex Colt 1911 A1 is a replica of one of the most iconic handguns ever produced. This was the standard sidearm for US military from 1911 until 1985, when it was replaced by the Beretta 92. Like the Berretta 92, the Colt 1911 firearm operates on short recoil. It is also known as M1911.
This Umarex airgun replica was actually produced before any of the other Umarex guns that I reviewed so far. Like the Beretta, it is made in Germany.
Operation
The Colt 1911 works very much like the Beretta 92FS, except for the safety aspects where Umarex has replicated both safety types of the firearm.
Loading a CO2 cartridge requires pressing the button on the left grip to push the right one out. You then need to pull out what looks like the magazine bottom and to unscrew the screw attached to it. Oil the tip of the CO2 cylinder, insert it and tighten the screw against its bottom - no effort is needed in this tightening, just ensure that the cylinder is not loose. Then replace the grip and slap the "magazine bottom" lever to pierce the cartridge.
Next step is to load pellets in one of the standard 8-pellet clips used by Umarex. To load the clip, open the slide by pulling down on the left side lever located above the trigger. Drop the clip in there, ratchet teeth towards the rear of the gun, and push back the slide.
Up to this point, everything worked like on the Beretta. Now comes the different part. To shoot, you need to deactivate two safeties. The first one - the thumb safety - is a one sided lever on the left side of the gun. When this is on, it disengages the trigger from operating the hammer (like on the Walther PPQ). Push it down to deactivate it. The second safety is the grip safety - you just need to hold the grip to engage this - without it being engaged, the hammer cannot strike the firing pin (well, the gas-release valve on this replica). The gun is now ready to fire.
If the grip safety sounds strange, do not worry: it operates very nicely when you just hold the gun as firmly as you would hold any other gun.
Like the Beretta, this Colt can fire in double action mode (just pull the trigger) or in single action mode (cock the hammer before pulling the trigger).
Package and build
As all other Umarex metal replicas, the M1911 comes in a plastic case with all its materials and accessories. This case is much nicer than those used with all other Umarex guns I tried so far. It lacks the precut foam and the etched firearm company logo (it just has a sticker), but it feels much more rigid and solid than the other cases. It is basically of similar sturdiness to Plano cases, whereas the usual Umarex cases were a notch below. This was a pleasant surprise.
The Colt comes with two clips, a key, a manual, safety instructions, and a promotional poster. The key can be used for adjusting the rear sight, just like on the Beretta.
I had mentioned a bunch of minor issues with the build of the Beretta. Fortunately, none of these were present for the Colt. In particular, the CO2 compartment was uniformly finished and the metal piece of the removable right grip had no traces of rust. The Colt is entirely made of metal except for the grips, which are made of what feels like rubber on my model (you can also choose wood, if you prefer). Even the sights appear to be made of metal. On the Beretta, I was annoyed by the looseness of the front sight, but this is not an issue with the Colt. Getting back to the grips, Umarex mentions that they are plastic, but to me they feel very much like rubber, so either they switched to using rubber or they used a very special plastic that feels like rubber. Regardless, the feel of these grips exceeded my expectations (I expected some plain plastic).
Bottom line is that the build of this Umarex pistol has no faults - it is a very very nice replica.
Let me comment a bit on a few more differences from the Beretta:
- the grip lever for piercing the CO2 extends much more in front of the grip than on the Beretta
- the right grip does not pop out as easily when pressing what on the firearm is the magazine release button. This is because the grip has two long pins for aligning it on the handle and, their material being flexible, they have more friction against the metal holes in which they are lodged; just pull the grip and do not be afraid to bend these pins a bit.
- the slide of the M1911 closes very nicely with a more muted sound than on the Beretta
- the handle of the M1911 is thinner than the Beretta's and it feels just right to me; the Beretta handle always felt "fat"
The Colt 1911 was offered in black and nickel with wood or plastic grips, but I have not seen the nickel version in merchant listings so far, so that may have been discontinued.
Adjustable settings
Like with the Beretta 92FS, the only adjustable setting is the rear sight, which can be adjusted for windage using the provided key. To do so, loosen the sight, then move it manually and re-tighten it - this is a bit finicky, but I only had to do it once.
Performance
In double action mode, the trigger operation feels rough. It will probably get better in time, but so far I can only say that it works, but I prefer the double action of any other airgun I reviewed so far. Single action is very interesting - the effort that is needed here is very small, which helps accuracy, but you do need to pull the finger all the way towards the handle for it to fire, which I am still trying to get used to. That being said, the little effort required in this mode meant that I could get much better accuracy from the Colt than I did from the Beretta after a similar breakdown period.
The sights work well and switching between this and the Beretta I realized that both of these need to be aimed exactly like the manual says - under the bullseye, otherwise you will shoot high.
The M1911 is an accurate airgun. It can probably fire as well as the Smith and Wesson 686 with practice, but the lack of full sights customization will make it more challenging.
CO2 use is very good. Like with the Beretta, you can get 60-80 shots easily (depending on ambient temperature) and you can push it well beyond if you do not care about clean target holes.
Conclusion
The Colt 1911 is a very nice pellet airgun replica. It has an excellent build, it handles nicely, it is accurate, and it has a unique enough mechanism (safeties + trigger) that it can complement the possession of another Umarex pistol replica. If you only want to get one Umarex pistol, this is a good choice. If you are intrigued by the S&W 686 as well, make the choice based on whether you prefer a pistol or a revolver.
Showing posts with label CO2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label CO2. Show all posts
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Friday, March 8, 2013
Crosman 3576W
As I mentioned in the review of the Smith and Wesson 686, the other CO2 airgun that I wanted to try was the Crosman 3576W. These are CO2 revolvers with similar specs - both have 6" barrels and use 10 pellet clips. They both also have very good reviews and the Crosman costs about a fifth of the cost of the Umarex revolver, so I was curious to compare them, especially since I liked very much the Crosman 1377C, so I knew that Crosman can provide great quality for an affordable price.
The style of the Crosman 3576W revolver draws inspiration from the Colt Python, but it replaces the swing out cylinder mechanism of that revolver with a top break mechanism that I first saw in the S&W Schofield; also, the Python did not seem to have contoured grips, so those are probably inherited from some other revolver model. As such, the 3576W is not a firearm replica - it is just styled to look like a firearm.
Crosman has quite a history of producing CO2 revolvers. The 3576W comes from a series of 357* revolver models that goes back to 1983 - 30 years! I imagine that the "357" part of the name hints to revolvers using the .357 Magnum round and I know that the "6" stands for the 6" barrel, but I do not know what the W is meant to suggest - perhaps higher power compared to previous generation? As with the S&W 686 airgun, this Crosman revolver also used to come in versions having different barrel sizes, but now only the 6" version is available.
Operation
One other aspect where the 3576W shows that it is not a replica is the presence of a safety. This safety takes the form of a bolt that can be pushed in the path of the hammer - to engage it, you have to pull the hammer slightly, to allow the safety to slide in front of it; to take it off, simply push it out of the way of the hammer.
As usual, the CO2 powerlet can be loaded in the grip of the revolver. The grip mechanism is rather unique in that both sides come off. First pull the right side by holding it from the middle and pulling it away - it should detach with little effort and once it comes off, the left side will be easy to remove too. What remains is a grip skeleton that is shaped to receive the CO2 powerlet. The piercing mechanism is a simple screw - this needs to be unscrewed first to make place for the powerlet. After oiling the tip of the CO2 cylinder and placing it in the grip, you can turn back the screw to pierce it. Do that by turning the screw firmly once you feel stronger resistance. As I mentioned in the review of the Walther PPQ, which uses a similar piercing mechanism, I like to turn the screw a bit after it pierces the cylinder, but then I unscrew it just a tiny bit. Now it is time to replace the grips. I do that in the reverse order in which I removed them - I first fit back the left grip and then the right one - when they are fitted correctly, pressing them together will result in a snapping sound and they'll get secured. Removing and putting back the grips requires very little force - if you find it to be otherwise, you are doing something wrong. The grips are made of plastic, so you should never apply excessive force - it is not necessary and it can break the attachment clips.
As mentioned earlier, the clip loading mimics a top break mechanism. To break open the revolver, you need to push a lever on top - keep it pressed while pushing down the barrel and release it only once the barrel is clear of the lock. You can now mount a clip on the short protruding pivot at the back of the barrel. Once a clip is loaded, I press again the top lever while pushing the barrel back to its normal position. I always press the top lever during this operation, to avoid wearing the locking mechanism.
The revolver is now ready to fire either in single action, after cocking the hammer, or in double action with a longer trigger pull.
Package and build
As usual for airguns in its price range, the 3576W came in a plastic wrap that I cut with scissors. One clip was included besides the manual and warranty cards. As it seems to be usual with Crosman packaging, the manual was rolled so I had to roll it in the opposite direction to get it to sit flat. I recommend getting one set of extra clips - they are inexpensive and make recharging easier.
The Crosman revolver is built from metal and plastic. The grips are plastic and attach to a metal frame, the clips are made of plastic, and the barrel is shrouded in plastic. The safety bolt is also plastic, but the rest is metal - the trigger, the hammer, the grip frame, and the barrel. I liked that a metallic piece was also used in the top break locking mechanism to protect the plastic of the shroud. Basically, all essential parts that suffer wear and tear are made of metal or protected by a piece of metal. The only parts that may get worn out are the attachment clips of the grips, but so far I saw no issues with them. This is a very nicely built revolver.
I also like the plastic parts - they look and feel very nice. They also make the 3576W very light, especially when compared with an airgun that uses more metal such as the Smith and Wesson 686.
Adjustable settings
The front sight is fixed, but the rear sight adjusts for both elevation and windage via a couple of screws.
Performance
The 3576W does a very good job of regulating CO2 use and it provides pretty constant power over the use of one powerlet. I can get 80 shots per CO2 cylinder, but after the first 60 shots, the power starts dropping and the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the paper targets, so I stop after 6 clips. This revolver definitely maintains constant power better than the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ.
The Crosman 3576W handles very nicely - I really like the shape of its grips and its light weight also makes it easy to handle it for extended periods. The sights are also very good.
The trigger is crisp and precise in single action mode. In double action mode, it requires a stronger pull, but it still works very predictably - I was quite impressed with the overall performance of the trigger.
Given all the above observations, it should not come as a surprise that the accuracy of the 3576W is excellent and that this revolver is very suitable for target shooting. Everything works great here.
Conclusion
Crosman has engineered another classic airgun in the 3576W. No wonder it is so popular. Even ignoring its very affordable price, this revolver offers pretty much everything that you could expect to find in a CO2 revolver.
I am impressed with Crosman - they offer excellent features in very affordable models.
In my next post, I will attempt to answer the unavoidable question - how does the Crosman 3576W compare to the Umarex Smith and Wesson 686?
The style of the Crosman 3576W revolver draws inspiration from the Colt Python, but it replaces the swing out cylinder mechanism of that revolver with a top break mechanism that I first saw in the S&W Schofield; also, the Python did not seem to have contoured grips, so those are probably inherited from some other revolver model. As such, the 3576W is not a firearm replica - it is just styled to look like a firearm.
Crosman has quite a history of producing CO2 revolvers. The 3576W comes from a series of 357* revolver models that goes back to 1983 - 30 years! I imagine that the "357" part of the name hints to revolvers using the .357 Magnum round and I know that the "6" stands for the 6" barrel, but I do not know what the W is meant to suggest - perhaps higher power compared to previous generation? As with the S&W 686 airgun, this Crosman revolver also used to come in versions having different barrel sizes, but now only the 6" version is available.
Operation
One other aspect where the 3576W shows that it is not a replica is the presence of a safety. This safety takes the form of a bolt that can be pushed in the path of the hammer - to engage it, you have to pull the hammer slightly, to allow the safety to slide in front of it; to take it off, simply push it out of the way of the hammer.
As usual, the CO2 powerlet can be loaded in the grip of the revolver. The grip mechanism is rather unique in that both sides come off. First pull the right side by holding it from the middle and pulling it away - it should detach with little effort and once it comes off, the left side will be easy to remove too. What remains is a grip skeleton that is shaped to receive the CO2 powerlet. The piercing mechanism is a simple screw - this needs to be unscrewed first to make place for the powerlet. After oiling the tip of the CO2 cylinder and placing it in the grip, you can turn back the screw to pierce it. Do that by turning the screw firmly once you feel stronger resistance. As I mentioned in the review of the Walther PPQ, which uses a similar piercing mechanism, I like to turn the screw a bit after it pierces the cylinder, but then I unscrew it just a tiny bit. Now it is time to replace the grips. I do that in the reverse order in which I removed them - I first fit back the left grip and then the right one - when they are fitted correctly, pressing them together will result in a snapping sound and they'll get secured. Removing and putting back the grips requires very little force - if you find it to be otherwise, you are doing something wrong. The grips are made of plastic, so you should never apply excessive force - it is not necessary and it can break the attachment clips.
As mentioned earlier, the clip loading mimics a top break mechanism. To break open the revolver, you need to push a lever on top - keep it pressed while pushing down the barrel and release it only once the barrel is clear of the lock. You can now mount a clip on the short protruding pivot at the back of the barrel. Once a clip is loaded, I press again the top lever while pushing the barrel back to its normal position. I always press the top lever during this operation, to avoid wearing the locking mechanism.
The revolver is now ready to fire either in single action, after cocking the hammer, or in double action with a longer trigger pull.
Package and build
As usual for airguns in its price range, the 3576W came in a plastic wrap that I cut with scissors. One clip was included besides the manual and warranty cards. As it seems to be usual with Crosman packaging, the manual was rolled so I had to roll it in the opposite direction to get it to sit flat. I recommend getting one set of extra clips - they are inexpensive and make recharging easier.
The Crosman revolver is built from metal and plastic. The grips are plastic and attach to a metal frame, the clips are made of plastic, and the barrel is shrouded in plastic. The safety bolt is also plastic, but the rest is metal - the trigger, the hammer, the grip frame, and the barrel. I liked that a metallic piece was also used in the top break locking mechanism to protect the plastic of the shroud. Basically, all essential parts that suffer wear and tear are made of metal or protected by a piece of metal. The only parts that may get worn out are the attachment clips of the grips, but so far I saw no issues with them. This is a very nicely built revolver.
I also like the plastic parts - they look and feel very nice. They also make the 3576W very light, especially when compared with an airgun that uses more metal such as the Smith and Wesson 686.
Adjustable settings
The front sight is fixed, but the rear sight adjusts for both elevation and windage via a couple of screws.
Performance
The 3576W does a very good job of regulating CO2 use and it provides pretty constant power over the use of one powerlet. I can get 80 shots per CO2 cylinder, but after the first 60 shots, the power starts dropping and the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the paper targets, so I stop after 6 clips. This revolver definitely maintains constant power better than the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ.
The Crosman 3576W handles very nicely - I really like the shape of its grips and its light weight also makes it easy to handle it for extended periods. The sights are also very good.
The trigger is crisp and precise in single action mode. In double action mode, it requires a stronger pull, but it still works very predictably - I was quite impressed with the overall performance of the trigger.
Given all the above observations, it should not come as a surprise that the accuracy of the 3576W is excellent and that this revolver is very suitable for target shooting. Everything works great here.
Conclusion
Crosman has engineered another classic airgun in the 3576W. No wonder it is so popular. Even ignoring its very affordable price, this revolver offers pretty much everything that you could expect to find in a CO2 revolver.
I am impressed with Crosman - they offer excellent features in very affordable models.
In my next post, I will attempt to answer the unavoidable question - how does the Crosman 3576W compare to the Umarex Smith and Wesson 686?
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
Umarex Smith and Wesson 686
After the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ, I decided to try two more CO2 airguns that had a great reputation for accuracy. The Umarex Smith and Wesson 586 and 686 revolvers were said to be as good as many target pistols, so they formed option #1.
The only difference between the 586 and the 686 models is that the latter has a nickel body. These revolvers used to come with several barrel sizes and you could even buy the barrels separately to exchange them, but these days only the 4" and 6" versions of the 586 can be found and the 686 only comes in a 6" version, with its 6" barrel also available separately (I wonder why). I picked the 686 because I liked how the nickel contrasted with the black grips and clip, but other than this aspect, I am not aware of any essential differences between these models, so this review will apply just as well to the 586 model.
The sights, with all the adjustments available, are among the best sights I used.
PS: Do you remember that at the beginning of the review I mentioned trying two CO2 airguns? Well, the other one is the Crosman 3576W, which I will review soon - I also plan to compare the two in a separate post.
The only difference between the 586 and the 686 models is that the latter has a nickel body. These revolvers used to come with several barrel sizes and you could even buy the barrels separately to exchange them, but these days only the 4" and 6" versions of the 586 can be found and the 686 only comes in a 6" version, with its 6" barrel also available separately (I wonder why). I picked the 686 because I liked how the nickel contrasted with the black grips and clip, but other than this aspect, I am not aware of any essential differences between these models, so this review will apply just as well to the 586 model.
Operation
The Umarex pistols are revolvers in disguise and thus their operation differs significantly from the firearms they copy. The Smith and Wesson revolvers do not have such problem. The only important difference is that instead of a full cylinder, these replicas use a rotating clip that masks as the front part of the cylinder (and doesn't mask too well on the 686, because the clips are black). The rear part of the cylinder is fixed and its only purpose is to mimic the look of the cylinder.
There is no safety on these revolvers, so it is better to perform the CO2 loading without a clip inserted. To reveal the CO2 compartment, open the lever at the bottom of the grip and then pull out the right grip. The CO2 mechanism is similar to that of the Beretta 92FS. There is a retainer screw that needs to be unscrewed before inserting the gas cylinder. Once that is done, oil the tip of a CO2 powerlet, insert it into the compartment, and tighten back the screw without exerting any force - you are just trying to secure the powerlet, not to pierce it. Once this is done, place back the right grip and then firmly push close the bottom lever - this will pierce the CO2 cylinder. This piercing part is trickier than on the Beretta - I found the grip lever to be harder to close quickly and I even managed to be slow enough in doing it that I once wasted two gas capsules. Just hold the grip tightly with one hand and then press the lever firmly with the other until it snaps shut.
With the CO2 loaded, the next step is to load a clip. Again, I remind you that there is no safety, so stay away from the trigger during this operation. The S&W 686 mimics a swing out cylinder loading mechanism - the clip needs to be loaded on an arm that is unlocked by pushing a lever behind the left side of the cylinder. Swing that arm out all the way, then slide the clip on it and close it back. The revolver is now ready to shoot.
The 686 works either in double action by directly pulling the trigger or in single action, by cocking the hammer and then pulling the trigger.
Package and build
The Smith and Wesson 686 came in a larger plastic case than that of the Beretta 92FS and this is not only because the 686 is a larger airgun, but because there is a lot of space inside. The case feels slightly sturdier than that of the Beretta, but is still not as solid as a Plano case. As usual with Umarex replica cases, the S&W logo is nicely etched on the front of this case. The foam inside is already cut to offer a lot of storage inserts - I am not even sure what they are all meant to hold, but it is better to have more storage options than less. Unlike with the Beretta case, the foam inside the S&W case is glued to it - I like to store the airgun papers under the foam, but I cannot do that here. A manual, a warranty card, safety rules, and a Umarex brochure come in the case. There are also a few accessories - two clips, two front sights of different widths, a barrel removal key, and a barrel cleaning brush.
As usual for the high end Umarex replicas, this airgun is mostly made of metal - the main exceptions are the plastic front sight and the rubber grips.
The plastic front sights are a nice idea. The gun comes with one sight mounted and two others of different widths are included as customization alternatives. I found the one that was mounted to be of the right width for me, but others may find one of the other two alternatives to work better for them.
I liked the intention of these sights but they also happen to generate my only trouble with this gun. One problem is that their base is wider than the metal slot where they were supposed to fit over the barrel, so they cannot be attached in a straight position and instead they end up sitting tilted to one side or the other. This is not what I expected from German manufacturing. I had to remove the sight piece and file the edges of its base, to get it to sit flush with the barrel. Another problem is that the sight is long, is not made of very rigid plastic, and is attached by a single screw - the result is that it moves slightly when touched - this contrasts unpleasantly with the otherwise very solid feel of this airgun. There is no operational impact, however, and this is a much shorter list of issues than I had with the Beretta 92FS.
Front sight aside, the 686 is very solidly built and looks very nice, even better than the Beretta. It is also a very large gun and thus it is quite heavy too.
The clips deserve a bit of commentary as well. They are very solid and heavy and their size permits housing 10 pellets. They only come in black, so there is no nickel version to match the 686, but I actually like the contrast they make with the body of the 686 - they act as a cylinder accent. On the Beretta/Walther style of clips, the ratchet teeth are extending from the clip body, but in these S&W clips, those teeth are recessed, which is very convenient because you can store more than a pair of clips in contact with each other without having any contact (and wear) between those teeth.
Also, many online reviews mentioned that the extra clips that Umarex sells are actually having larger pellet holes than the clips that came with the revolver. If that was an issue at some point, it appears that it has now been resolved - I have seen no difference between the original clips and the extra set I purchased - they are identical.
Adjustable settings
I have already mentioned that the front sights can be changed to adjust their width. In a nice change of pace from the Umarex pistols, the 686 rear sight can now be adjusted for elevation as well as for windage. The adjustments are done by turning a couple of screws, so they can be done with more precision than on many other airguns.
Performance
The 686 behaves very differently from the Beretta and Walther pistols when it comes to CO2 consumption. It seems to regulate the use of CO2 much better, so it keeps almost constant power for 50 shots (5 clips), after which the power will drop abruptly. The first time I used it, I fired 6 clips and about halfway through the 6th one I felt the power dropping severely, so now I stop after 5 clips.
The better CO2 use regulation leads to shots being more powerful than with the Beretta/Walther, so they cut cleaner holes in paper targets and they are louder as well. The 686 is distinctly louder than the other CO2 airguns and in fact it might be the loudest airgun I have.
The sights, with all the adjustments available, are among the best sights I used.
This revolver is indeed very accurate. It lives to the reputation of being as accurate as a target pistol. Only its size and weight prevent me from shooting it as accurately as a target pistol, but without doubt, this is one of the most accurate airguns I have.
Special praise needs to be given to the trigger action. I expected it to be smooth and crisp in single action, but I was very surprised about how nicely the double action worked - it is both light and crisp, so this may well be the best double action available in any airgun pistol or revolver.
Special praise needs to be given to the trigger action. I expected it to be smooth and crisp in single action, but I was very surprised about how nicely the double action worked - it is both light and crisp, so this may well be the best double action available in any airgun pistol or revolver.
Conclusion
The Smith and Wesson 686 sets the standard by which CO2 airguns should be judged. Front sight nitpicking aside, it offers a superb build and operation coupled with excellent accuracy. I would only caution about its size - it could be found to be too large and heavy to use comfortably, but if that is not an issue, I cannot see why anyone would be disappointed with this revolver.
PS: Do you remember that at the beginning of the review I mentioned trying two CO2 airguns? Well, the other one is the Crosman 3576W, which I will review soon - I also plan to compare the two in a separate post.
Monday, March 4, 2013
Umarex Walther PPQ
I wanted to try another CO2 pistol after the Beretta 92FS. The Walther PPQ drew my attention for several reasons:
The PPQ is based on a similar revolver mechanism as the Beretta 92FS and it shares the same clip with that pistol. The main differences are that the PPQ:
Loading the clip is the same as on the Beretta 92FS and once that is done, the gun is ready to fire. Disengage the safety by pushing it forward and up and then you can fire by pulling the trigger.
The PPQ can fire both pellets and steel BBs and comes with separate clips for each of these. The pellet clip is a metal clip, identical to those used in the Beretta 92FS. The BB clip looks the same but is made of plastic. I have not used BBs in this gun, so my evaluation is done using only pellets.
Package and build
The PPQ is wrapped in a plastic box that you need to cut with scissors to extract the pistol, the manual, and the two clips. This is typical for pistols in this price range.
I like the build of the PPQ very much. The plastic looks even better than in the pictures I had seen online and feels very nice to touch. The trigger and the slide mechanism are made of metal - only the exterior is made of plastic. I expect this pistol to last as much as the Beretta.
I also like the shape of the pistol very much - it is very comfortable to hold. Looking at pictures of the firearm, it is hard to tell the difference. This is a very well made replica.
Unlike the Beretta, which was manufactured in Germany, this Walther pistol is made in Taiwan. It is not clear to me whether Umarex owns manufacturing facilities in Taiwan or simply contracted one of the experienced Taiwanese airgun makers, but whatever may be the case, I found this PPQ to be very well built and without the many small issues that I discovered in the Beretta 92FS.
Adjustable settings
The rear sight can be adjusted for windage. While there is no adjustment for elevation, I did not miss one.
Performance
Let me get the bad out of the way. During the first couple of CO2 cartridges, I experienced many misfires where gas would be released, but the pellet would remain stuck in the clip. I am not sure what caused this, but the situation has improved with subsequent use. Now, I might still get a pellet stuck, but it happens once per CO2 cartridge, if at all. Because of this initial issue, I have also avoided pushing the use of one CO2 powerlet beyond 60 shots. If you have the same experience, be patient - it should improve after about 100 shots.
The trigger of the PPQ, being DA, requires a longer pull and more force, but I found it to be very predictable (a good thing). As a result, I get pretty consistent groups with the PPQ. On average, I get better groups with the PPQ than with the 92FS, but with the 92FS I got better all-time groups.
Like the Beretta, the PPQ seems able to use the CO2 powerlet for more shots by using less gas with each shot. This also makes the PPQ as silent as the 92FS - they are both louder than the Crosman 1377C, but still more silent than other CO2 pistols.
I initially thought that the sight markings would be more helpful, but after a while I started ignoring them. The sights are pretty good.
As I said earlier, I really like the shape of this pistol - it feels very, very comfortable to hold.
Conclusion
There is nothing to reproach to the PPQ once you accept it as what it is - a replica pistol, not a target pistol. It is inexpensive, it looks and handles very well, and it shoots great even with the challenge of DAO. If you are looking for a reliable and inexpensive pistol replica, you should definitely have a look at the Walther PPQ.
- it is also produced by Umarex and it shares the same clip with the Beretta, so I could reuse the clips in both pistols
- Umarex owns Walther and I heard that this pellet pistol was launched at the same time as the Walther PPQ firearm
- the Walther PPQ was relatively inexpensive and I was curious about the quality available at this price point
- the PPQ is one of the smallest pellet pistol replicas that Umarex makes these days
- I liked its look
The PPQ is based on a similar revolver mechanism as the Beretta 92FS and it shares the same clip with that pistol. The main differences are that the PPQ:
- is double action only (DAO) and has no hammer
- has a safety on the right side only (the safety of the 92FS has levers on both sides)
- has a plastic exterior
- has a rather unique CO2 loading mechanism
- has sights marked with paint
- is less expensive
Loading the clip is the same as on the Beretta 92FS and once that is done, the gun is ready to fire. Disengage the safety by pushing it forward and up and then you can fire by pulling the trigger.
The PPQ can fire both pellets and steel BBs and comes with separate clips for each of these. The pellet clip is a metal clip, identical to those used in the Beretta 92FS. The BB clip looks the same but is made of plastic. I have not used BBs in this gun, so my evaluation is done using only pellets.
Package and build
The PPQ is wrapped in a plastic box that you need to cut with scissors to extract the pistol, the manual, and the two clips. This is typical for pistols in this price range.
I like the build of the PPQ very much. The plastic looks even better than in the pictures I had seen online and feels very nice to touch. The trigger and the slide mechanism are made of metal - only the exterior is made of plastic. I expect this pistol to last as much as the Beretta.
I also like the shape of the pistol very much - it is very comfortable to hold. Looking at pictures of the firearm, it is hard to tell the difference. This is a very well made replica.
Unlike the Beretta, which was manufactured in Germany, this Walther pistol is made in Taiwan. It is not clear to me whether Umarex owns manufacturing facilities in Taiwan or simply contracted one of the experienced Taiwanese airgun makers, but whatever may be the case, I found this PPQ to be very well built and without the many small issues that I discovered in the Beretta 92FS.
Adjustable settings
The rear sight can be adjusted for windage. While there is no adjustment for elevation, I did not miss one.
Performance
Let me get the bad out of the way. During the first couple of CO2 cartridges, I experienced many misfires where gas would be released, but the pellet would remain stuck in the clip. I am not sure what caused this, but the situation has improved with subsequent use. Now, I might still get a pellet stuck, but it happens once per CO2 cartridge, if at all. Because of this initial issue, I have also avoided pushing the use of one CO2 powerlet beyond 60 shots. If you have the same experience, be patient - it should improve after about 100 shots.
The trigger of the PPQ, being DA, requires a longer pull and more force, but I found it to be very predictable (a good thing). As a result, I get pretty consistent groups with the PPQ. On average, I get better groups with the PPQ than with the 92FS, but with the 92FS I got better all-time groups.
Like the Beretta, the PPQ seems able to use the CO2 powerlet for more shots by using less gas with each shot. This also makes the PPQ as silent as the 92FS - they are both louder than the Crosman 1377C, but still more silent than other CO2 pistols.
I initially thought that the sight markings would be more helpful, but after a while I started ignoring them. The sights are pretty good.
As I said earlier, I really like the shape of this pistol - it feels very, very comfortable to hold.
Conclusion
There is nothing to reproach to the PPQ once you accept it as what it is - a replica pistol, not a target pistol. It is inexpensive, it looks and handles very well, and it shoots great even with the challenge of DAO. If you are looking for a reliable and inexpensive pistol replica, you should definitely have a look at the Walther PPQ.
Monday, February 18, 2013
CO2 airguns
I decided to write this post so I can collect some general information about CO2 airguns in one place, rather than spreading it across several reviews.
The small size of the CO2 mechanism makes it the best solution for powering firearm pistol replicas, as the 12g powerlet can easily fit inside the grip of a pistol.
When it comes to maintenance, the most important thing is to oil the tip of the powerlet with a special oil like the Crosman Pellgunoil - this will protect the seal from the cold CO2. Other moving parts need to be oiled sparingly, as needed. This makes CO2 airguns very easy to maintain and very robust as well.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Umarex Beretta 92FS
The Umarex Beretta 92FS was my first pellet airgun. I picked it up because it seemed a safe choice based on all the online reviews I read about it. In this review, you will see how this turned out.
The manufacturer of the 92FS - Umarex - is currently the leading maker of pellet guns that are firearm replicas. They also make airsoft and BB replicas, but in those areas they have strong competition from Taiwanese, Japanese, and Chinese manufacturers. The 92FS is made in Germany and is a replica of the Beretta 92FS firearm, which has replaced the Colt 1911 A1 as the standard sidearm of US Armed Forces (Umarex also produces a Colt 1911 A1 pellet gun replica).
Operation
This airgun gets its power from a 12g CO2 powerlet.
The Beretta 92FS firearm is a semi automatic pistol that operates on short recoil. When such a gun is fired, its slide moves back, the spent shell is ejected, and then, during the return movement of the slide, a new cartridge is loaded from the magazine. Some airsoft and BB guns simulate this operation using gas from their power source to push the slide back while a new BB ball is loaded from the magazine. But while BB balls can be fed from a magazine, it is much more complicated to do so with pellets; though it is possible: I just read about BACS, which involves compressed air cartridges, and such a system would do the trick, but it would also be very cumbersome to use - not just for loading the cartridges with pellets, but for retrieving them after each shot. So Umarex sacrificed some realism and instead designed a revolver mechanism so tiny that it fits within the slide of their pistol replicas. The immediate impact is that if you are looking for a replica with a moving slide, you will be better served by an airsoft or a BB replica, because pellet replicas are all operating as revolvers. The revolver mechanism on all Umarex pistols is exposed by pressing a lever on the left side of the frame - that lever will release forward the portion of the slide containing the airgun's barrel - you can now drop one of the provided clips inside and then push back the slide to shut it - the clip is effectively a revolver cylinder. This loading operation is one major difference from the operation of the firearm. The tiny size of the clip is also the reason why the Umarex pistol replicas are limited to 8 pellets per clip. On the other hand, these clips are standard and they can be used on all their pistol replicas. When loading a clip, no special alignment needs to be ensured other than the facing of the clip - flat side forward, ratchet side backwards. Loading/unloading a clip is a very easy operation - the only caveat is that you need to keep the gun straight, otherwise it is easy for the tiny clip to roll out of the slide and fall down.
The other major difference compared to the firearm appears in the trigger operation. The 92FS model is a double action/single action (DA/SA) gun, where the first trigger pull is double action (DA), but then the following ones are all single action (SA), until the magazine is spent or the pistol is uncocked. As the SA operation is enabled by the short recoil mechanism, this aspect cannot be reproduced by the replica. Instead, the trigger of the airgun can either work DA or it can work SA if you cock the hammer first - just like a revolver.
The safety works just as the one on the firearm and I always keep it on when loading and unloading a pellet clip. Like the grip, the safety is ambidextrous, with a lever on both sides of the frame. However, I find it easier and smoother to operate the safety by pulling or pushing on both levers at the same time. Speaking of safety, I also never keep a clip inside the gun when loading and unloading a CO2 powerlet.
For installing a CO2 cylinder, the right grip of the pistol needs to be removed by pressing the magazine release button on the left grip. What looks like the bottom of the magazine is actually a plastic lever that needs to be opened before continuing, as it will provide more space for the cylinder to fit in. Next, unscrew the large brass screw at the bottom of the grip, by rotating it clockwise (from front to rear). Now, the cylinder can be inserted and I always put a drop of Crosman Pellgunoil on its tip before doing so, to protect the seal and extend its life. Slide in the powerlet with its tip first and let it rest in the grip. Now you can tighten that brass screw by turning it in the opposite direction - you are just supposed to tighten the cylinder, not to pierce it, so do not exert any force here - just stop once the screw encounters resistance. Check that the cylinder does not move inside the grip and then you can snap the plastic bottom shut - that is what will pierce the cylinder. You can now place the right grip back - you can actually do this before piercing the cylinder, if you like. Now the gun is powered and you can load a clip as described earlier. Do not pull the plastic bottom open until you are done using the powerlet - doing so will release the remaining gas, after which you can remove the grip and unscrew the brass screw to let the powerlet fall out of place. The powerlet cylinder will be very cold, so avoid touching it.
It is very helpful to watch someone else go through these steps. Luckily, you can do that by watching video reviews on YouTube. For example, here's one I watched before ordering the gun.
I have seen some users complaining that loading a CO2 powerlet is hard. It is not. The mechanism that Umarex employs here is very simple and effective and does not require any special effort or dexterity.
Package and build
The Beretta comes in a plastic case padded with foam, with inserts cut for the gun and the two clips that come with it. Additionally, you can remove foam to reveal inserts for a pellet box and a CO2 powerlet. There is also a small key that is needed for adjusting the rear sights. A manual, a warranty card, safety rules, and a brochure showing other Umarex products complete the package. It is a nice package but I wish that the plastic case was of better quality - its locks do not stay close and there is space gawking open under the handle - a Plano case is much better built and I would have replaced this case with one if it wasn't for the nice Beretta logo and the nicely cut inserts.
Umarex offers both black and nickel versions of this gun with either plastic or wood grips. There is no functional difference between them - the price differences only reflect the different materials used.
The gun itself is made of metal with very few exceptions. The only non-metal parts other than the grips are the grip lever used for piercing the CO2 cylinder and the front and rear sights. The metal build gives the Beretta a good weight - it is heavier than it looks.
The grip of the gun feels very wide - I am not sure if that is the case with the original firearm as well, but it feels different from other guns I held.
Given the price of this airgun, a few aspects were disappointing, although none of them affected its operation:
Since I mentioned oiling the gun, here is one more tip: when opening the slide to load a clip, you can notice a seal around the end of the barrel - I also wiped that with a drop of Pellgunoil when I oiled the gun. Just opening the slide allows access to this seal and I plan to apply Pellgunoil on it whenever it starts to look dry.
Adjustable settings
The only thing you can adjust on the 92FS is the rear sight, and that can only be adjusted for windage, not for elevation. To adjust the sight, you need to use the provided key to loosen the sight screw, after which you can shift the sight to the desired position, and then secure it by tightening its screw again. This is not a precision operation, but it actually worked out pretty well and I did not have to fiddle much with it to get it where I wanted.
As a side note, I had to adjust the sights on all the airguns I used so far - even on those supposedly tested at the factory!
Performance
I was surprised by how long the Beretta 92FS could go on a single CO2 powerlet. In one session, I fired around 120 shots (pausing between clip changes to let the gun warm up) and I only stopped because I was concerned about the pressure dropping suddenly and getting a pellet stuck in the barrel. I do not recommend attempting to replicate this feat though - these days I do not shoot more than 60-80 shots on a single powerlet, depending on ambient temperature. The reason for this is that the power of the shots slowly decreases with each subsequent one and after about 40 shots, the decrease in speed means that the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the target. It appears that you can shoot 80 shots safely, if you want to go on using the powerlet, but beyond that, I would be very careful with how the performance changes from shot to shot, to avoid a stuck pellet. For reference, I use Crosman powerlets - I understand that the volume of gas varies a bit across manufacturers.
I mentioned that the power decreases slowly with each shot. This gun will be particularly powerful (and I feel it is less accurate too) on the first clip - it will be louder and will also release some CO2 with each shot, but after the first clip, both these issues will disappear. I have seen similar behavior in other CO2 airguns, so there is nothing special here. As you keep shooting, if you aim consistently, you may be able to notice that groups slide down about an inch for 80 shots, but this will happen gradually.
The trigger operation is very smooth in both DA and SA mode. Cocking the hammer is also very smooth. Everything feels right in this area.
The iron sights work well. I had some trouble using them at the beginning, but that was due both to my lack of experience and to poor illumination of my targets.
The Beretta 92FS is probably a very accurate gun if fired in a vise, but being a firearm replica, it is more difficult to shoot accurately than an airgun designed for target competition and I feel that the variable CO2 power may provide another challenge.
My best group from the Beretta is about 0.25in wider than the tightest groups that I get from other guns, which is ok, but when I look at consistency, I also get much more variation in the size of the 92FS groups. I think there are several factors at play here:
Conclusion
This was a long review and I tried to cover a lot of details, but now is the time to put them all in perspective. Is this a nice airgun or not?
Well, I like it a lot. I like the 92FS style and I like the sturdy build. I nitpicked on some aspects, but this was just because I had very high expectations from German manufacturing; however, none of those aspects prevented me from enjoying this airgun. The only thing that I would change about it is the front sight - I would make that be one piece with the slide. The trigger and the hammer operate very smoothly and the gun is accurate enough to have fun with a target.
I expect that this gun will last a lifetime given its components, with proper care of its seals. It is a nice airgun to collect too. It is not my favorite gun when accuracy matters, but it is an airgun that I enjoy using while the CO2 lasts.
Updates
--- 2013/02/20 ---
I continued testing the Beretta and I once managed to get a very tight group that reinforced my feeling that this pistol can be very accurate. I then remembered reading a comment about a gun being more accurate in double action than in single action, so I decided to try DA again and my groups improved immediately! The DA has a much longer pull and requires considerably more force than the SA, but I guess that makes me hold the gun better because my results were consistently better.
My copy of the 92FS shoots a bit high. I was trying to adjust for that and I ended up with worse results, so now I just aim for the center and I try to get tight groups. It would have been really nice to have an elevation adjustment - I guess this would be another aspect I would change about this pistol.
I earlier mentioned the screws that loosened - well, today I had to tighten the screw at the end of the barrel again. It got loose and I could hear the spring inside vibrating when opening the slide.
And I noticed again that the Beretta is less noisy than other CO2 airguns after the first clip - this is very nice behavior.
--- 2013/04/13 ---
I am starting to get more reliable groups from this Beretta in SA mode. I am also aiming, as the manual suggested, just below the bullseye of my Gamo paper targets - that makes the shots go to the center. Looks like all Umarex pistols have the sights set this way (the Walther PPQ and the Colt 1911 A1 are the same) and since there is no sight elevation adjustment, one needs to get used to it. The trigger might have become smoother as well after all the use it got. One last thing that I noticed is that the gun no longer impresses me as being overpowered and noisier on the first clip - use of CO2 seems more even - this is either due to break in or to the weather warming up. All in all, I continue to be happy with this purchase.
The manufacturer of the 92FS - Umarex - is currently the leading maker of pellet guns that are firearm replicas. They also make airsoft and BB replicas, but in those areas they have strong competition from Taiwanese, Japanese, and Chinese manufacturers. The 92FS is made in Germany and is a replica of the Beretta 92FS firearm, which has replaced the Colt 1911 A1 as the standard sidearm of US Armed Forces (Umarex also produces a Colt 1911 A1 pellet gun replica).
Operation
This airgun gets its power from a 12g CO2 powerlet.
The Beretta 92FS firearm is a semi automatic pistol that operates on short recoil. When such a gun is fired, its slide moves back, the spent shell is ejected, and then, during the return movement of the slide, a new cartridge is loaded from the magazine. Some airsoft and BB guns simulate this operation using gas from their power source to push the slide back while a new BB ball is loaded from the magazine. But while BB balls can be fed from a magazine, it is much more complicated to do so with pellets; though it is possible: I just read about BACS, which involves compressed air cartridges, and such a system would do the trick, but it would also be very cumbersome to use - not just for loading the cartridges with pellets, but for retrieving them after each shot. So Umarex sacrificed some realism and instead designed a revolver mechanism so tiny that it fits within the slide of their pistol replicas. The immediate impact is that if you are looking for a replica with a moving slide, you will be better served by an airsoft or a BB replica, because pellet replicas are all operating as revolvers. The revolver mechanism on all Umarex pistols is exposed by pressing a lever on the left side of the frame - that lever will release forward the portion of the slide containing the airgun's barrel - you can now drop one of the provided clips inside and then push back the slide to shut it - the clip is effectively a revolver cylinder. This loading operation is one major difference from the operation of the firearm. The tiny size of the clip is also the reason why the Umarex pistol replicas are limited to 8 pellets per clip. On the other hand, these clips are standard and they can be used on all their pistol replicas. When loading a clip, no special alignment needs to be ensured other than the facing of the clip - flat side forward, ratchet side backwards. Loading/unloading a clip is a very easy operation - the only caveat is that you need to keep the gun straight, otherwise it is easy for the tiny clip to roll out of the slide and fall down.
The other major difference compared to the firearm appears in the trigger operation. The 92FS model is a double action/single action (DA/SA) gun, where the first trigger pull is double action (DA), but then the following ones are all single action (SA), until the magazine is spent or the pistol is uncocked. As the SA operation is enabled by the short recoil mechanism, this aspect cannot be reproduced by the replica. Instead, the trigger of the airgun can either work DA or it can work SA if you cock the hammer first - just like a revolver.
The safety works just as the one on the firearm and I always keep it on when loading and unloading a pellet clip. Like the grip, the safety is ambidextrous, with a lever on both sides of the frame. However, I find it easier and smoother to operate the safety by pulling or pushing on both levers at the same time. Speaking of safety, I also never keep a clip inside the gun when loading and unloading a CO2 powerlet.
For installing a CO2 cylinder, the right grip of the pistol needs to be removed by pressing the magazine release button on the left grip. What looks like the bottom of the magazine is actually a plastic lever that needs to be opened before continuing, as it will provide more space for the cylinder to fit in. Next, unscrew the large brass screw at the bottom of the grip, by rotating it clockwise (from front to rear). Now, the cylinder can be inserted and I always put a drop of Crosman Pellgunoil on its tip before doing so, to protect the seal and extend its life. Slide in the powerlet with its tip first and let it rest in the grip. Now you can tighten that brass screw by turning it in the opposite direction - you are just supposed to tighten the cylinder, not to pierce it, so do not exert any force here - just stop once the screw encounters resistance. Check that the cylinder does not move inside the grip and then you can snap the plastic bottom shut - that is what will pierce the cylinder. You can now place the right grip back - you can actually do this before piercing the cylinder, if you like. Now the gun is powered and you can load a clip as described earlier. Do not pull the plastic bottom open until you are done using the powerlet - doing so will release the remaining gas, after which you can remove the grip and unscrew the brass screw to let the powerlet fall out of place. The powerlet cylinder will be very cold, so avoid touching it.
It is very helpful to watch someone else go through these steps. Luckily, you can do that by watching video reviews on YouTube. For example, here's one I watched before ordering the gun.
I have seen some users complaining that loading a CO2 powerlet is hard. It is not. The mechanism that Umarex employs here is very simple and effective and does not require any special effort or dexterity.
Package and build
The Beretta comes in a plastic case padded with foam, with inserts cut for the gun and the two clips that come with it. Additionally, you can remove foam to reveal inserts for a pellet box and a CO2 powerlet. There is also a small key that is needed for adjusting the rear sights. A manual, a warranty card, safety rules, and a brochure showing other Umarex products complete the package. It is a nice package but I wish that the plastic case was of better quality - its locks do not stay close and there is space gawking open under the handle - a Plano case is much better built and I would have replaced this case with one if it wasn't for the nice Beretta logo and the nicely cut inserts.
Umarex offers both black and nickel versions of this gun with either plastic or wood grips. There is no functional difference between them - the price differences only reflect the different materials used.
The grip of the gun feels very wide - I am not sure if that is the case with the original firearm as well, but it feels different from other guns I held.
Given the price of this airgun, a few aspects were disappointing, although none of them affected its operation:
- The interior metal part of the right grip had rust traces to the point that it would leave rust marks on the grip metal to which it would attach. I used 3-IN-ONE oil to clean that piece of metal in two sessions and now it looks clean and shiny - note that I did not use that oil for any other purpose than cleaning this rust.
- The front sight is a bit loose - it does not affect functionality, but it is easy to notice that it is not rigid. I don't think it will ever break, but I wish it was made of metal and was one piece with the slide.
- The right lever of the safety is attached via a screw that was a bit loose on my copy. I tightened it slightly but it loosened again after more use. I now tightened it even better and I hope it stays that way. Again, no functional impact, just not what I expected from a quality assembly.
- There is also a screw at the tip of the gun, just under the muzzle. That screw was also loose on my gun, got tightened a bit, then got loose again, and now I tightened it better - I hope it lasts. This screw under the muzzle is important because it allows removing the slide and cleaning it on the inside. Which leads to another small issue:
- The slide did not have much lubricant on it and I didn't like how it worked after a couple hundred shots, especially as the gun was getting cooler from firing shots in succession, so I decided to take it off and apply some Slip 2000 Gun Lube. When I removed the slide, which also holds the barrel, I noticed that there were two more screws securing the barrel in place. Those were also not tightly screwed for some reason.
- The inner part of the nickel grip frame and that of the nickel slide have some stains on them - I have no idea what caused them and whether they are the result of the manufacturing process or an issue with my copy of the gun.
- The hammer is made of black metal, but after hitting the valve pin or the safety for hundreds of times, it lost some of its black surface and started revealing the original silver color of its alloy. I do not understand why it was not made of the same material as the barrel on the nickel version that I have.
Since I mentioned oiling the gun, here is one more tip: when opening the slide to load a clip, you can notice a seal around the end of the barrel - I also wiped that with a drop of Pellgunoil when I oiled the gun. Just opening the slide allows access to this seal and I plan to apply Pellgunoil on it whenever it starts to look dry.
Adjustable settings
The only thing you can adjust on the 92FS is the rear sight, and that can only be adjusted for windage, not for elevation. To adjust the sight, you need to use the provided key to loosen the sight screw, after which you can shift the sight to the desired position, and then secure it by tightening its screw again. This is not a precision operation, but it actually worked out pretty well and I did not have to fiddle much with it to get it where I wanted.
As a side note, I had to adjust the sights on all the airguns I used so far - even on those supposedly tested at the factory!
Performance
I was surprised by how long the Beretta 92FS could go on a single CO2 powerlet. In one session, I fired around 120 shots (pausing between clip changes to let the gun warm up) and I only stopped because I was concerned about the pressure dropping suddenly and getting a pellet stuck in the barrel. I do not recommend attempting to replicate this feat though - these days I do not shoot more than 60-80 shots on a single powerlet, depending on ambient temperature. The reason for this is that the power of the shots slowly decreases with each subsequent one and after about 40 shots, the decrease in speed means that the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the target. It appears that you can shoot 80 shots safely, if you want to go on using the powerlet, but beyond that, I would be very careful with how the performance changes from shot to shot, to avoid a stuck pellet. For reference, I use Crosman powerlets - I understand that the volume of gas varies a bit across manufacturers.
I mentioned that the power decreases slowly with each shot. This gun will be particularly powerful (and I feel it is less accurate too) on the first clip - it will be louder and will also release some CO2 with each shot, but after the first clip, both these issues will disappear. I have seen similar behavior in other CO2 airguns, so there is nothing special here. As you keep shooting, if you aim consistently, you may be able to notice that groups slide down about an inch for 80 shots, but this will happen gradually.
The trigger operation is very smooth in both DA and SA mode. Cocking the hammer is also very smooth. Everything feels right in this area.
The iron sights work well. I had some trouble using them at the beginning, but that was due both to my lack of experience and to poor illumination of my targets.
The Beretta 92FS is probably a very accurate gun if fired in a vise, but being a firearm replica, it is more difficult to shoot accurately than an airgun designed for target competition and I feel that the variable CO2 power may provide another challenge.
My best group from the Beretta is about 0.25in wider than the tightest groups that I get from other guns, which is ok, but when I look at consistency, I also get much more variation in the size of the 92FS groups. I think there are several factors at play here:
- the CO2 power source introduces too much power variation across 10 shots
- the pistols that give me better results have lighter triggers
- the smaller length of the Beretta compared to a regular target pistol makes its iron sights less accurate
- the shorter barrel may also affect accuracy, although this effect may be minimal for distances under 10m
Conclusion
This was a long review and I tried to cover a lot of details, but now is the time to put them all in perspective. Is this a nice airgun or not?
Well, I like it a lot. I like the 92FS style and I like the sturdy build. I nitpicked on some aspects, but this was just because I had very high expectations from German manufacturing; however, none of those aspects prevented me from enjoying this airgun. The only thing that I would change about it is the front sight - I would make that be one piece with the slide. The trigger and the hammer operate very smoothly and the gun is accurate enough to have fun with a target.
I expect that this gun will last a lifetime given its components, with proper care of its seals. It is a nice airgun to collect too. It is not my favorite gun when accuracy matters, but it is an airgun that I enjoy using while the CO2 lasts.
Updates
--- 2013/02/20 ---
I continued testing the Beretta and I once managed to get a very tight group that reinforced my feeling that this pistol can be very accurate. I then remembered reading a comment about a gun being more accurate in double action than in single action, so I decided to try DA again and my groups improved immediately! The DA has a much longer pull and requires considerably more force than the SA, but I guess that makes me hold the gun better because my results were consistently better.
My copy of the 92FS shoots a bit high. I was trying to adjust for that and I ended up with worse results, so now I just aim for the center and I try to get tight groups. It would have been really nice to have an elevation adjustment - I guess this would be another aspect I would change about this pistol.
I earlier mentioned the screws that loosened - well, today I had to tighten the screw at the end of the barrel again. It got loose and I could hear the spring inside vibrating when opening the slide.
And I noticed again that the Beretta is less noisy than other CO2 airguns after the first clip - this is very nice behavior.
--- 2013/04/13 ---
I am starting to get more reliable groups from this Beretta in SA mode. I am also aiming, as the manual suggested, just below the bullseye of my Gamo paper targets - that makes the shots go to the center. Looks like all Umarex pistols have the sights set this way (the Walther PPQ and the Colt 1911 A1 are the same) and since there is no sight elevation adjustment, one needs to get used to it. The trigger might have become smoother as well after all the use it got. One last thing that I noticed is that the gun no longer impresses me as being overpowered and noisier on the first clip - use of CO2 seems more even - this is either due to break in or to the weather warming up. All in all, I continue to be happy with this purchase.
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