The Umarex Colt 1911 A1 is a replica of one of the most iconic handguns ever produced. This was the standard sidearm for US military from 1911 until 1985, when it was replaced by the Beretta 92. Like the Berretta 92, the Colt 1911 firearm operates on short recoil. It is also known as M1911.
This Umarex airgun replica was actually produced before any of the other Umarex guns that I reviewed so far. Like the Beretta, it is made in Germany.
Operation
The Colt 1911 works very much like the Beretta 92FS, except for the safety aspects where Umarex has replicated both safety types of the firearm.
Loading a CO2 cartridge requires pressing the button on the left grip to push the right one out. You then need to pull out what looks like the magazine bottom and to unscrew the screw attached to it. Oil the tip of the CO2 cylinder, insert it and tighten the screw against its bottom - no effort is needed in this tightening, just ensure that the cylinder is not loose. Then replace the grip and slap the "magazine bottom" lever to pierce the cartridge.
Next step is to load pellets in one of the standard 8-pellet clips used by Umarex. To load the clip, open the slide by pulling down on the left side lever located above the trigger. Drop the clip in there, ratchet teeth towards the rear of the gun, and push back the slide.
Up to this point, everything worked like on the Beretta. Now comes the different part. To shoot, you need to deactivate two safeties. The first one - the thumb safety - is a one sided lever on the left side of the gun. When this is on, it disengages the trigger from operating the hammer (like on the Walther PPQ). Push it down to deactivate it. The second safety is the grip safety - you just need to hold the grip to engage this - without it being engaged, the hammer cannot strike the firing pin (well, the gas-release valve on this replica). The gun is now ready to fire.
If the grip safety sounds strange, do not worry: it operates very nicely when you just hold the gun as firmly as you would hold any other gun.
Like the Beretta, this Colt can fire in double action mode (just pull the trigger) or in single action mode (cock the hammer before pulling the trigger).
Package and build
As all other Umarex metal replicas, the M1911 comes in a plastic case with all its materials and accessories. This case is much nicer than those used with all other Umarex guns I tried so far. It lacks the precut foam and the etched firearm company logo (it just has a sticker), but it feels much more rigid and solid than the other cases. It is basically of similar sturdiness to Plano cases, whereas the usual Umarex cases were a notch below. This was a pleasant surprise.
The Colt comes with two clips, a key, a manual, safety instructions, and a promotional poster. The key can be used for adjusting the rear sight, just like on the Beretta.
I had mentioned a bunch of minor issues with the build of the Beretta. Fortunately, none of these were present for the Colt. In particular, the CO2 compartment was uniformly finished and the metal piece of the removable right grip had no traces of rust. The Colt is entirely made of metal except for the grips, which are made of what feels like rubber on my model (you can also choose wood, if you prefer). Even the sights appear to be made of metal. On the Beretta, I was annoyed by the looseness of the front sight, but this is not an issue with the Colt. Getting back to the grips, Umarex mentions that they are plastic, but to me they feel very much like rubber, so either they switched to using rubber or they used a very special plastic that feels like rubber. Regardless, the feel of these grips exceeded my expectations (I expected some plain plastic).
Bottom line is that the build of this Umarex pistol has no faults - it is a very very nice replica.
Let me comment a bit on a few more differences from the Beretta:
- the grip lever for piercing the CO2 extends much more in front of the grip than on the Beretta
- the right grip does not pop out as easily when pressing what on the firearm is the magazine release button. This is because the grip has two long pins for aligning it on the handle and, their material being flexible, they have more friction against the metal holes in which they are lodged; just pull the grip and do not be afraid to bend these pins a bit.
- the slide of the M1911 closes very nicely with a more muted sound than on the Beretta
- the handle of the M1911 is thinner than the Beretta's and it feels just right to me; the Beretta handle always felt "fat"
The Colt 1911 was offered in black and nickel with wood or plastic grips, but I have not seen the nickel version in merchant listings so far, so that may have been discontinued.
Adjustable settings
Like with the Beretta 92FS, the only adjustable setting is the rear sight, which can be adjusted for windage using the provided key. To do so, loosen the sight, then move it manually and re-tighten it - this is a bit finicky, but I only had to do it once.
Performance
In double action mode, the trigger operation feels rough. It will probably get better in time, but so far I can only say that it works, but I prefer the double action of any other airgun I reviewed so far. Single action is very interesting - the effort that is needed here is very small, which helps accuracy, but you do need to pull the finger all the way towards the handle for it to fire, which I am still trying to get used to. That being said, the little effort required in this mode meant that I could get much better accuracy from the Colt than I did from the Beretta after a similar breakdown period.
The sights work well and switching between this and the Beretta I realized that both of these need to be aimed exactly like the manual says - under the bullseye, otherwise you will shoot high.
The M1911 is an accurate airgun. It can probably fire as well as the Smith and Wesson 686 with practice, but the lack of full sights customization will make it more challenging.
CO2 use is very good. Like with the Beretta, you can get 60-80 shots easily (depending on ambient temperature) and you can push it well beyond if you do not care about clean target holes.
Conclusion
The Colt 1911 is a very nice pellet airgun replica. It has an excellent build, it handles nicely, it is accurate, and it has a unique enough mechanism (safeties + trigger) that it can complement the possession of another Umarex pistol replica. If you only want to get one Umarex pistol, this is a good choice. If you are intrigued by the S&W 686 as well, make the choice based on whether you prefer a pistol or a revolver.
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Webley Alecto Ultra
Webley is one of the few companies that had a long history of producing both firearms and airguns. They discontinued the production of firearms in 1979, to focus only on airguns, which currently seem to be produced mainly in Turkey. The Alecto is a recent multi-pump pneumatic model, introduced in 2009, that comes in either .177 or .22 caliber and also provides a choice between the standard model and the Ultra model, which has a 3 inch longer barrel. The Ultra version confers slightly more velocity to pellets, but other than that, there are no significant build/operation differences between the two variants.
Operation
The operation of the Alecto is typical of top lever pneumatic guns like the Beeman P3. There are two metallic locks at the rear of the gun that release the top when they are pulled up. You then extend the top to about 120 degrees (not almost 180, as with the Beeman). You can pump the Alecto up to 3 times and you need to load a pellet into the breech before the last pump. If you only want to pump once, you should load the pellet and close the top, otherwise, just close the top and repeat the process while making sure that you remember to load a pellet before the last pump. Loading a pellet is much easier than on the Beeman because there is more space around the breech. Pumping is amazing - this is the smoothest pumping action that I have seen so far. One pump is really easy, two pumps still feel easy, and only at the third pump I felt that I approached the effort required for pumping the P3 once. Considering that the Webley puts out more power than the Beeman, this is remarkable.
There are two aspects that make the Alecto much nicer to pump:
I have seen several users complaining about the effort needed to do the third pump. I found it to be acceptable, especially when considering that you don't need to pump the Alecto thrice and that the effort when choosing to do so is comparable to pumping the Beeman P3 once, when you don't even have a choice. That being said, I usually pump this gun only once as it provides enough power for target shooting. This is actually the main reason why I picked the Ultra version - to have good enough power on a single pump.
The pumping of the gun automatically engages the safety - a blade that covers the front of the trigger and also blocks its operation. Once the guns is pumped and loaded, this blade can be pushed out of the way and the gun becomes ready to fire. The trigger is very light at default settings, so be careful with it.
Package and build
The Webley Alecto comes in the nicest package I have seen so far (which perhaps is not surprising, given that this is also the most expensive airgun that I reviewed so far). For one thing, the Alecto comes in a nice solid case that is a far cry from the flimsy Umarex cases. This case is above the quality of Plano cases - it feels very sturdy and rigid, and locks tight. There is just a small opening under the handle, in an area where you can add a padlock, but otherwise, the case closes very tight. The inside has a cutout for seating the gun, a bore brush, an oil bottle, and a pellet tin case - the brush, oil bottle, and a Torx key are included. There is also a manual and a test page showing the results of factory testing, which include a photocopy of a target showing 4 shots and other test data - this is quite nice and adds to the professional feeling of the package.
The Alecto is a big gun - its size was actually one of the things that made me delay the decision of purchasing it, but I shouldn't have worried: while the gun is large, it also handles beautifully. The core mechanisms are all metal, with the exterior being built from high quality plastic. If the gun would have been all metal, it would have been a chore to hold it, but the plastic allows it to be very light for its size, without sacrificing robustness. The grip is molded, so you need to make sure that you pick the right version for you - this is the first gun I review that does not have an ambidextrous grip. Build quality is top notch here - I can find no fault.
Adjustable settings
This is an area where the Alecto excels and can make much more expensive guns feel like amateur offerings. All essential features are configurable:
The front sight can be pushed in and rotated to expose a second shorter blade, to be used for 25m target shooting (assuming that the default longer one was calibrated for 10m target shooting). This is a very nice feature and I know of no other airgun currently being produced that offers it.
The rear sight can be adjusted for elevation and windage via two standard flat screws.
All aspects of the trigger functionality can be adjusted using the included Torx key. You can cant the trigger left or right, so a finger can pull it more comfortably. You can move the trigger forward or backward; you can change the length of its pull; you can adjust the strength of the trigger spring. You cannot ask for more customization than what is being offered here. I tweaked all these settings and in particular I strengthened the trigger spring, so that it would oppose a bit more resistance - I prefer this because it gives me a chance to tighten and stabilize my grip before firing.
Finally, the grip can be adjusted as well - there is a frame on one side of the grip (right side for the right handed grip, left side otherwise) that can be adjusted so it fits your hand - you can tilt this frame and you can raise it or lower it, so it provides a comfortable rest for the base of your hand.
All these configuration settings make another great reason to like the Alecto - they really allow you to tweak an already comfortable airgun into one that fits your hand like a glove.
Performance
The Alecto is a winner in this area too. Pumping it is very easy, so you do not feel exhausted by the process; holding it and operating it is comfortable because of its light build, contoured grip, and all the customizations you can make; the iron sights are very crisp; the trigger operation is smooth - the result is that the Alecto can be fired very accurately. This is one of the top airguns that I used so far and will be the yardstick by which I judge others. I could shoot this all day and everytime I use it I am impressed by the quality of its engineering.
I almost forgot - with one pump, the Alecto Ultra is also very silent - I suspect that the longer barrel also helps with this, as it allows the compressed air to dissipate its energy more before it gets out.
Conclusion
The Webley Alecto is an exceptional airgun, worth every penny. Its top-notch engineering, excellent build, and superb performance make it an easy recommendation if you are looking for a target shooting pistol.
Operation
The operation of the Alecto is typical of top lever pneumatic guns like the Beeman P3. There are two metallic locks at the rear of the gun that release the top when they are pulled up. You then extend the top to about 120 degrees (not almost 180, as with the Beeman). You can pump the Alecto up to 3 times and you need to load a pellet into the breech before the last pump. If you only want to pump once, you should load the pellet and close the top, otherwise, just close the top and repeat the process while making sure that you remember to load a pellet before the last pump. Loading a pellet is much easier than on the Beeman because there is more space around the breech. Pumping is amazing - this is the smoothest pumping action that I have seen so far. One pump is really easy, two pumps still feel easy, and only at the third pump I felt that I approached the effort required for pumping the P3 once. Considering that the Webley puts out more power than the Beeman, this is remarkable.
There are two aspects that make the Alecto much nicer to pump:
- it is a large gun, so you can get more torque on the top lever operation
- the force required to close the lever peaks at around 45 degrees, very much unlike the behavior of the P3 pump, which peaks at around 10 degrees
I have seen several users complaining about the effort needed to do the third pump. I found it to be acceptable, especially when considering that you don't need to pump the Alecto thrice and that the effort when choosing to do so is comparable to pumping the Beeman P3 once, when you don't even have a choice. That being said, I usually pump this gun only once as it provides enough power for target shooting. This is actually the main reason why I picked the Ultra version - to have good enough power on a single pump.
The pumping of the gun automatically engages the safety - a blade that covers the front of the trigger and also blocks its operation. Once the guns is pumped and loaded, this blade can be pushed out of the way and the gun becomes ready to fire. The trigger is very light at default settings, so be careful with it.
Package and build
The Webley Alecto comes in the nicest package I have seen so far (which perhaps is not surprising, given that this is also the most expensive airgun that I reviewed so far). For one thing, the Alecto comes in a nice solid case that is a far cry from the flimsy Umarex cases. This case is above the quality of Plano cases - it feels very sturdy and rigid, and locks tight. There is just a small opening under the handle, in an area where you can add a padlock, but otherwise, the case closes very tight. The inside has a cutout for seating the gun, a bore brush, an oil bottle, and a pellet tin case - the brush, oil bottle, and a Torx key are included. There is also a manual and a test page showing the results of factory testing, which include a photocopy of a target showing 4 shots and other test data - this is quite nice and adds to the professional feeling of the package.
The Alecto is a big gun - its size was actually one of the things that made me delay the decision of purchasing it, but I shouldn't have worried: while the gun is large, it also handles beautifully. The core mechanisms are all metal, with the exterior being built from high quality plastic. If the gun would have been all metal, it would have been a chore to hold it, but the plastic allows it to be very light for its size, without sacrificing robustness. The grip is molded, so you need to make sure that you pick the right version for you - this is the first gun I review that does not have an ambidextrous grip. Build quality is top notch here - I can find no fault.
Adjustable settings
This is an area where the Alecto excels and can make much more expensive guns feel like amateur offerings. All essential features are configurable:
The front sight can be pushed in and rotated to expose a second shorter blade, to be used for 25m target shooting (assuming that the default longer one was calibrated for 10m target shooting). This is a very nice feature and I know of no other airgun currently being produced that offers it.
The rear sight can be adjusted for elevation and windage via two standard flat screws.
All aspects of the trigger functionality can be adjusted using the included Torx key. You can cant the trigger left or right, so a finger can pull it more comfortably. You can move the trigger forward or backward; you can change the length of its pull; you can adjust the strength of the trigger spring. You cannot ask for more customization than what is being offered here. I tweaked all these settings and in particular I strengthened the trigger spring, so that it would oppose a bit more resistance - I prefer this because it gives me a chance to tighten and stabilize my grip before firing.
Finally, the grip can be adjusted as well - there is a frame on one side of the grip (right side for the right handed grip, left side otherwise) that can be adjusted so it fits your hand - you can tilt this frame and you can raise it or lower it, so it provides a comfortable rest for the base of your hand.
All these configuration settings make another great reason to like the Alecto - they really allow you to tweak an already comfortable airgun into one that fits your hand like a glove.
Performance
The Alecto is a winner in this area too. Pumping it is very easy, so you do not feel exhausted by the process; holding it and operating it is comfortable because of its light build, contoured grip, and all the customizations you can make; the iron sights are very crisp; the trigger operation is smooth - the result is that the Alecto can be fired very accurately. This is one of the top airguns that I used so far and will be the yardstick by which I judge others. I could shoot this all day and everytime I use it I am impressed by the quality of its engineering.
I almost forgot - with one pump, the Alecto Ultra is also very silent - I suspect that the longer barrel also helps with this, as it allows the compressed air to dissipate its energy more before it gets out.
Conclusion
The Webley Alecto is an exceptional airgun, worth every penny. Its top-notch engineering, excellent build, and superb performance make it an easy recommendation if you are looking for a target shooting pistol.
Beeman P3
After reviewing the Beeman P17, which is an inexpensive clone of the Beeman P3, I finally decided that I should get the original airgun made in Germany by Weihrauch. The P17 performed superbly, but its pump failed after less than 100 shots - it served a role, however, as an inexpensive way of getting acquainted with the P3, which I might not have tried otherwise.
I recommend reading the P17 review first, as I will mainly go over the differences between the P3 and P17 in this one.
Operation
The P3 operates identically with the P17 - it is a single pump pneumatic gun. Notably, the force required for pumping them is the same - the P3 does not have a more efficient pump - just, hopefully, a better built one.
One thing that I omitted mentioning in the P17 review is a warning for when opening the top lever: you need to hold it firmly until you hear air hissing into the pump, otherwise it will snap back, so avoid releasing it early.
Package and build
The P3 came in a large generic Beeman cardboard box. The airgun was seated in a cutout that was made for a gun with a longer barrel. Beeman appears to have forgot to pack in the manual, so the only thing I got was the gun. Pretty spartan for the price.
The P3, like the P17, is built from a combination of plastic and metal, except the plastic and especially the metal appear to be of better quality. The plastic is a darker black and might have a smoother finish if memory doesn't play tricks on me (as I returned the P17 due to its failure, I can no longer compare them side by side). The pump and the top release lock of the P3 look as if they are made of steel, whereas I remember those in the P17 as being made of some kind of lower quality alloy. The trigger of the P3 also feels nicer. In terms of overall handling, the differences are not significant, but I hope that the higher quality materials of the P3 will ensure a much longer life.
The most notable difference is that the P3 features fiber optic front and rear sights. Intriguingly, some of the online images of the P3 do not show the rear fiber optic sights - maybe these are an addition in more recent production units. They are a nice touch.
An important feature of the P3/P17 is that they are very compact pneumatic airguns that are styled to look as firearms. Thus, they are very different from guns like the Crosman 1377C or the Daisy Avanti models.
Adjustable settings
Like on the P17, the rear sights can be adjusted precisely for elevation and windage, through the use of two flat screws.
Performance
The fiber optic sights are a nice bonus over the already excellent sights of the P17. And the P3 trigger feels smoother than the P17 counterpart. Thus, it should come as no surprise that the P3 is as great a performer as the P17. Its comfortable shape, size, and weight, combined with the light, smooth trigger, make it very easy to shoot accurately. This is one of the nicest air pistols I own and its only drawback is the effort required of pumping it, which prevents me from using it for extended periods of time.
In terms of noise, the P3 is about as noisy as a CO2 gun. The P17 might have been a bit less loud, but I cannot remember exactly.
Conclusion
The Beeman P3 is an excellent target pistol that is very fun to shoot until you get tired of pumping it. Its price is its main drawback and I understand why the owners of Beeman concocted the P17 as a less expensive version. However, the P17 seems to have a very limited lifespan, so it only works as an advertisement for what the P3 can offer. If you are looking for an accurate pneumatic airgun that is also compact and styled as a firearm, then the P3 is the least expensive offer currently on the market.
I recommend reading the P17 review first, as I will mainly go over the differences between the P3 and P17 in this one.
Operation
The P3 operates identically with the P17 - it is a single pump pneumatic gun. Notably, the force required for pumping them is the same - the P3 does not have a more efficient pump - just, hopefully, a better built one.
One thing that I omitted mentioning in the P17 review is a warning for when opening the top lever: you need to hold it firmly until you hear air hissing into the pump, otherwise it will snap back, so avoid releasing it early.
Package and build
The P3 came in a large generic Beeman cardboard box. The airgun was seated in a cutout that was made for a gun with a longer barrel. Beeman appears to have forgot to pack in the manual, so the only thing I got was the gun. Pretty spartan for the price.
The P3, like the P17, is built from a combination of plastic and metal, except the plastic and especially the metal appear to be of better quality. The plastic is a darker black and might have a smoother finish if memory doesn't play tricks on me (as I returned the P17 due to its failure, I can no longer compare them side by side). The pump and the top release lock of the P3 look as if they are made of steel, whereas I remember those in the P17 as being made of some kind of lower quality alloy. The trigger of the P3 also feels nicer. In terms of overall handling, the differences are not significant, but I hope that the higher quality materials of the P3 will ensure a much longer life.
The most notable difference is that the P3 features fiber optic front and rear sights. Intriguingly, some of the online images of the P3 do not show the rear fiber optic sights - maybe these are an addition in more recent production units. They are a nice touch.
An important feature of the P3/P17 is that they are very compact pneumatic airguns that are styled to look as firearms. Thus, they are very different from guns like the Crosman 1377C or the Daisy Avanti models.
Adjustable settings
Like on the P17, the rear sights can be adjusted precisely for elevation and windage, through the use of two flat screws.
Performance
The fiber optic sights are a nice bonus over the already excellent sights of the P17. And the P3 trigger feels smoother than the P17 counterpart. Thus, it should come as no surprise that the P3 is as great a performer as the P17. Its comfortable shape, size, and weight, combined with the light, smooth trigger, make it very easy to shoot accurately. This is one of the nicest air pistols I own and its only drawback is the effort required of pumping it, which prevents me from using it for extended periods of time.
In terms of noise, the P3 is about as noisy as a CO2 gun. The P17 might have been a bit less loud, but I cannot remember exactly.
Conclusion
The Beeman P3 is an excellent target pistol that is very fun to shoot until you get tired of pumping it. Its price is its main drawback and I understand why the owners of Beeman concocted the P17 as a less expensive version. However, the P17 seems to have a very limited lifespan, so it only works as an advertisement for what the P3 can offer. If you are looking for an accurate pneumatic airgun that is also compact and styled as a firearm, then the P3 is the least expensive offer currently on the market.
Saturday, April 6, 2013
Beeman P17
Beeman Precision Airguns had a close partnership with German airgun manufacturer Weihrauch. BPA have initially imported Weihrauch airguns to the US and then they partnered with Weihrauch to develop a number of airguns that got marketed under both the Beeman and Weihrauch brands. Thus, the spring piston Beeman P1 corresponds to the Weihrauch HW45, the pneumatic Beeman P2 to the Weihrauch HW75, and the pneumatic Beeman P3 to the Weihrauch HW40. At this point, you might wonder what all of this has got to do with the Beeman P17 - well, this is the interesting part: after BPA got acquired by S/R Industries, this model seems to have appeared as a less expensive clone of the Beeman P3 that is manufactured in China. The P3 is a plastic pneumatic top lever airgun that is manufactured in Germany by Weihrauch. The P17 is the same design, but is much less expensive because of its place of manufacture. At a 5th of the price of the Weihrauch 40, the P17 sounds too good to be true - is it really so? Read on for the details.
Operation
Being a single shot, pneumatic pistol, the P17 is very simple to operate. Cocking the gun releases the top part, which includes the barrel, and exposes the pump mechanism. The top part needs to be pulled forward - there is no pumping during this move, so this is an easy motion. Once the lever is extended, you need to load a pellet in the breech of the barrel - this is the finicky part, because there is just enough space for adult fingers to do the operation. Make sure that the skirt of the pellet is flush with the breech, otherwise it will damage the seal around the pump opening. Now comes the physically demanding part - you need to push back the top part and close it - this move gets gradually harder as you get closer to the end and it will take a noticeable effort to close it. It feels ok a few time, but do it twenty times or more and it will start wearing you off.
Closing the lever also engages the pistol's safety, which is a lever above the trigger, on the left side. This needs to be pushed away from the grip before firing. If you are right handed, you can conveniently do this with the thumb.
Package and build
Like all inexpensive airguns, the Beeman P17 comes in a plastic package that you can throw away. I actually got the version that came with a red dot sight, which I found to be useless for target shooting. I imagine it helps with situations where you want to aim fast, but it didn't look like it would help with precision shooting because of parallax issues.
The pistol is very nicely built. It is mostly made of plastic, but it has a very nice feel to it - it reminds me of the Walther PPQ both in terms of feel and in terms of stylistic touches - the grip and trigger guard in particular seem to take a clue from the Walther pistols. Note that the internals of the P17 are all metal - that includes the trigger, the hammer, and the safety lever.
For a top-lever pistol, the P17 is very compact and it is also very light.
One nice touch that the P17 includes is a builtin compensator. I have no idea how effective it is, but it looks nice.
Adjustable settings
The rear sight is adjustable for both windage and elevation and the adjustment mechanism works great, allowing precision changes.
Performance
The P17 impressed me with its accuracy and handling. It was one of the most accurate pistols I used so far. I say "was" because after less than 100 shots the pump failed and I was left with a piece of junk - fortunately, this happened during the period within which I could still return it, which I promptly did. I would have got a replacement but I have seen multiple reviews describing pump failures for this model, so I decided not to risk again. I actually read those reviews before ordering the P17, but I wanted to see for myself, so I did.
It might help to describe the pump failure in more detail. It happened as I was reloading the pistol, in the middle of a shooting session. I had fired it a few times and then the pump just failed as I was closing the lever for another shot. By failed, I mean that I heard a sudden hiss of air and the lever closed instantly with no effort. Further attempts to pump it led to similar results - I would get resistance when closing the lever up to about 40 degrees and then suddenly the air would gush out and the lever would snap closed with no resistance. I suspect that the head of the pump just started giving way under pressure - it would work up to a point, but then it would just fail and let the air out.
Leaving aside this unfortunate pump failure for the P17, my experience with this pistol design was very positive. Because of its shape and weight, it was a pleasure to use. The only downside was the force required for pumping it. Accuracy was excellent, the trigger was light and crisp, and power was sufficient to cut clean round holes in targets - all of these made the Beeman P17 a very nice pistol for target shooting.
Conclusion
I cannot recommend the Beeman P17 model - unfortunately, it looks like the attempt to provide an inexpensive version of the P3 has compromised the robustness of the pump and through that it compromised the entire product (yes, it was too good to be true). However, while it worked, the P17 worked very well and this makes me think that the Beeman P3 would make a very fine airgun.
So this is an unusual review, because I started by reviewing one product, only to recommend another, more expensive, one. Take it as more of an indirect review of the design of the Beeman P3.
Operation
Being a single shot, pneumatic pistol, the P17 is very simple to operate. Cocking the gun releases the top part, which includes the barrel, and exposes the pump mechanism. The top part needs to be pulled forward - there is no pumping during this move, so this is an easy motion. Once the lever is extended, you need to load a pellet in the breech of the barrel - this is the finicky part, because there is just enough space for adult fingers to do the operation. Make sure that the skirt of the pellet is flush with the breech, otherwise it will damage the seal around the pump opening. Now comes the physically demanding part - you need to push back the top part and close it - this move gets gradually harder as you get closer to the end and it will take a noticeable effort to close it. It feels ok a few time, but do it twenty times or more and it will start wearing you off.
Closing the lever also engages the pistol's safety, which is a lever above the trigger, on the left side. This needs to be pushed away from the grip before firing. If you are right handed, you can conveniently do this with the thumb.
Package and build
Like all inexpensive airguns, the Beeman P17 comes in a plastic package that you can throw away. I actually got the version that came with a red dot sight, which I found to be useless for target shooting. I imagine it helps with situations where you want to aim fast, but it didn't look like it would help with precision shooting because of parallax issues.
The pistol is very nicely built. It is mostly made of plastic, but it has a very nice feel to it - it reminds me of the Walther PPQ both in terms of feel and in terms of stylistic touches - the grip and trigger guard in particular seem to take a clue from the Walther pistols. Note that the internals of the P17 are all metal - that includes the trigger, the hammer, and the safety lever.
For a top-lever pistol, the P17 is very compact and it is also very light.
One nice touch that the P17 includes is a builtin compensator. I have no idea how effective it is, but it looks nice.
Adjustable settings
The rear sight is adjustable for both windage and elevation and the adjustment mechanism works great, allowing precision changes.
Performance
The P17 impressed me with its accuracy and handling. It was one of the most accurate pistols I used so far. I say "was" because after less than 100 shots the pump failed and I was left with a piece of junk - fortunately, this happened during the period within which I could still return it, which I promptly did. I would have got a replacement but I have seen multiple reviews describing pump failures for this model, so I decided not to risk again. I actually read those reviews before ordering the P17, but I wanted to see for myself, so I did.
It might help to describe the pump failure in more detail. It happened as I was reloading the pistol, in the middle of a shooting session. I had fired it a few times and then the pump just failed as I was closing the lever for another shot. By failed, I mean that I heard a sudden hiss of air and the lever closed instantly with no effort. Further attempts to pump it led to similar results - I would get resistance when closing the lever up to about 40 degrees and then suddenly the air would gush out and the lever would snap closed with no resistance. I suspect that the head of the pump just started giving way under pressure - it would work up to a point, but then it would just fail and let the air out.
Leaving aside this unfortunate pump failure for the P17, my experience with this pistol design was very positive. Because of its shape and weight, it was a pleasure to use. The only downside was the force required for pumping it. Accuracy was excellent, the trigger was light and crisp, and power was sufficient to cut clean round holes in targets - all of these made the Beeman P17 a very nice pistol for target shooting.
Conclusion
I cannot recommend the Beeman P17 model - unfortunately, it looks like the attempt to provide an inexpensive version of the P3 has compromised the robustness of the pump and through that it compromised the entire product (yes, it was too good to be true). However, while it worked, the P17 worked very well and this makes me think that the Beeman P3 would make a very fine airgun.
So this is an unusual review, because I started by reviewing one product, only to recommend another, more expensive, one. Take it as more of an indirect review of the design of the Beeman P3.
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Crosman 3576W vs Umarex Smith and Wesson 686
As promised in the review of the Crosman 3576W, I am going to compare that revolver with the Umarex Smith and Wesson 686. Both of these are similar in the high level specs - both are CO2 revolvers, both use 10 pellet clips, and both have a 6" barrel. There is an obvious difference in the materials used, but what else does one get for the significant price difference? To answer this question, I will use the same format that I used for airgun reviews, except now, each section will address the differences between these two airguns.
Operation
Both revolvers use CO2. The 686 requires removing a single grip side and the piercing is performed by the lever that masks as the grip bottom. The 3576W requires removing both grips and the piercing is performed by turning a screw that is revealed when opening the grips. In general, I prefer the approach taken by the S&W, but in this particular instance, I found it a bit more finicky than on the Beretta 92FS, which uses the same mechanism.
The clip loading is done using a swing out cylinder mechanism, while the Crosman uses a top break approach. The swing out approach is simpler and more robust.
Overall, there is no significant difference in operation. Users may prefer one approach over the other, but both revolvers are nice and easy to use.
Package and build
The S&W 686 impresses here, as it comes with a nice custom case and is built to look like the firearm it replicates. The 3576W is built very well, but this is an area where the price difference has an obvious justification.
Adjustable settings
Both revolvers have a nice adjustable rear sight. The S&W offers two additional options for customizing the front sight and those give it an edge.
Performance
Both revolvers do a great job of regulating the CO2 consumption. By this, I mean that the airguns maintain high enough power for longer, with the result that they also consume the CO2 powerlet after fewer shots. This is a good thing though, because fewer stronger shots are better than a lot of weak ones when it comes to target shooting. The S&W 686 seems to do a superb job here, as it cuts clean holes through paper for 50 shots, then loses power very quickly after that. The 3576W seems to lose power a bit faster, but after 60 shots, it still produces enough power for punching holes in paper targets and can go 20 more shots if you don't care about scoring - the sudden drop in power that I noticed with the 686 is not present here. The 686 seems to have a stricter consumption regulation, but the difference is pretty small anyway - both revolvers are great CO2 airguns.
Both revolvers also have great triggers. The 686 has a lighter trigger and the double action is exceptionally smooth. The 3576W double action is very good, but the 686 is just special here. Both triggers work great in single action - the 686 is still smoother here, but I actually prefer the resistance of the Crosman single action, so I'd call it a draw.
In terms of handling, the plastic build of the Crosman works in its favor, as it makes it easier to use for longer sessions. I also find the handle-trigger ergonomics to be slightly more comfortable than on the 686. The S&W 686 is a large and heavy revolver and its weight and size take their toll after a while - this is a plus if you want it for training to use a similar firearm, but a minus if you only care about target shooting.
The accuracy of both these revolvers is excellent and I cannot pick one over the other. Neither is designed for target shooting, but they can work in that role pretty well.
Conclusion
Both the Crosman 3576W and the Umarex S&W 686 are excellent CO2 revolvers. The 686 is a showpiece and in this aspect, it has no competition from the 3576W. But when it comes to actual use and results, the differences are smaller than one might expect. The 686 offers an adjustable front sight and an exceptional double action trigger, as well as an excellent use of the CO2 powerlet, but these differences aside, there is very little to separate these two airguns when it comes to accuracy - in fact, here, the plastic build of the Crosman make it a bit easier to use over longer periods of time.
If you are split between these options, I hope this comparison will help. And if you are still split, consider doing what I did - get both! They are worth it.
Operation
Both revolvers use CO2. The 686 requires removing a single grip side and the piercing is performed by the lever that masks as the grip bottom. The 3576W requires removing both grips and the piercing is performed by turning a screw that is revealed when opening the grips. In general, I prefer the approach taken by the S&W, but in this particular instance, I found it a bit more finicky than on the Beretta 92FS, which uses the same mechanism.
The clip loading is done using a swing out cylinder mechanism, while the Crosman uses a top break approach. The swing out approach is simpler and more robust.
Overall, there is no significant difference in operation. Users may prefer one approach over the other, but both revolvers are nice and easy to use.
Package and build
The S&W 686 impresses here, as it comes with a nice custom case and is built to look like the firearm it replicates. The 3576W is built very well, but this is an area where the price difference has an obvious justification.
Adjustable settings
Both revolvers have a nice adjustable rear sight. The S&W offers two additional options for customizing the front sight and those give it an edge.
Performance
Both revolvers do a great job of regulating the CO2 consumption. By this, I mean that the airguns maintain high enough power for longer, with the result that they also consume the CO2 powerlet after fewer shots. This is a good thing though, because fewer stronger shots are better than a lot of weak ones when it comes to target shooting. The S&W 686 seems to do a superb job here, as it cuts clean holes through paper for 50 shots, then loses power very quickly after that. The 3576W seems to lose power a bit faster, but after 60 shots, it still produces enough power for punching holes in paper targets and can go 20 more shots if you don't care about scoring - the sudden drop in power that I noticed with the 686 is not present here. The 686 seems to have a stricter consumption regulation, but the difference is pretty small anyway - both revolvers are great CO2 airguns.
Both revolvers also have great triggers. The 686 has a lighter trigger and the double action is exceptionally smooth. The 3576W double action is very good, but the 686 is just special here. Both triggers work great in single action - the 686 is still smoother here, but I actually prefer the resistance of the Crosman single action, so I'd call it a draw.
In terms of handling, the plastic build of the Crosman works in its favor, as it makes it easier to use for longer sessions. I also find the handle-trigger ergonomics to be slightly more comfortable than on the 686. The S&W 686 is a large and heavy revolver and its weight and size take their toll after a while - this is a plus if you want it for training to use a similar firearm, but a minus if you only care about target shooting.
The accuracy of both these revolvers is excellent and I cannot pick one over the other. Neither is designed for target shooting, but they can work in that role pretty well.
Conclusion
Both the Crosman 3576W and the Umarex S&W 686 are excellent CO2 revolvers. The 686 is a showpiece and in this aspect, it has no competition from the 3576W. But when it comes to actual use and results, the differences are smaller than one might expect. The 686 offers an adjustable front sight and an exceptional double action trigger, as well as an excellent use of the CO2 powerlet, but these differences aside, there is very little to separate these two airguns when it comes to accuracy - in fact, here, the plastic build of the Crosman make it a bit easier to use over longer periods of time.
If you are split between these options, I hope this comparison will help. And if you are still split, consider doing what I did - get both! They are worth it.
Friday, March 8, 2013
Crosman 3576W
As I mentioned in the review of the Smith and Wesson 686, the other CO2 airgun that I wanted to try was the Crosman 3576W. These are CO2 revolvers with similar specs - both have 6" barrels and use 10 pellet clips. They both also have very good reviews and the Crosman costs about a fifth of the cost of the Umarex revolver, so I was curious to compare them, especially since I liked very much the Crosman 1377C, so I knew that Crosman can provide great quality for an affordable price.
The style of the Crosman 3576W revolver draws inspiration from the Colt Python, but it replaces the swing out cylinder mechanism of that revolver with a top break mechanism that I first saw in the S&W Schofield; also, the Python did not seem to have contoured grips, so those are probably inherited from some other revolver model. As such, the 3576W is not a firearm replica - it is just styled to look like a firearm.
Crosman has quite a history of producing CO2 revolvers. The 3576W comes from a series of 357* revolver models that goes back to 1983 - 30 years! I imagine that the "357" part of the name hints to revolvers using the .357 Magnum round and I know that the "6" stands for the 6" barrel, but I do not know what the W is meant to suggest - perhaps higher power compared to previous generation? As with the S&W 686 airgun, this Crosman revolver also used to come in versions having different barrel sizes, but now only the 6" version is available.
Operation
One other aspect where the 3576W shows that it is not a replica is the presence of a safety. This safety takes the form of a bolt that can be pushed in the path of the hammer - to engage it, you have to pull the hammer slightly, to allow the safety to slide in front of it; to take it off, simply push it out of the way of the hammer.
As usual, the CO2 powerlet can be loaded in the grip of the revolver. The grip mechanism is rather unique in that both sides come off. First pull the right side by holding it from the middle and pulling it away - it should detach with little effort and once it comes off, the left side will be easy to remove too. What remains is a grip skeleton that is shaped to receive the CO2 powerlet. The piercing mechanism is a simple screw - this needs to be unscrewed first to make place for the powerlet. After oiling the tip of the CO2 cylinder and placing it in the grip, you can turn back the screw to pierce it. Do that by turning the screw firmly once you feel stronger resistance. As I mentioned in the review of the Walther PPQ, which uses a similar piercing mechanism, I like to turn the screw a bit after it pierces the cylinder, but then I unscrew it just a tiny bit. Now it is time to replace the grips. I do that in the reverse order in which I removed them - I first fit back the left grip and then the right one - when they are fitted correctly, pressing them together will result in a snapping sound and they'll get secured. Removing and putting back the grips requires very little force - if you find it to be otherwise, you are doing something wrong. The grips are made of plastic, so you should never apply excessive force - it is not necessary and it can break the attachment clips.
As mentioned earlier, the clip loading mimics a top break mechanism. To break open the revolver, you need to push a lever on top - keep it pressed while pushing down the barrel and release it only once the barrel is clear of the lock. You can now mount a clip on the short protruding pivot at the back of the barrel. Once a clip is loaded, I press again the top lever while pushing the barrel back to its normal position. I always press the top lever during this operation, to avoid wearing the locking mechanism.
The revolver is now ready to fire either in single action, after cocking the hammer, or in double action with a longer trigger pull.
Package and build
As usual for airguns in its price range, the 3576W came in a plastic wrap that I cut with scissors. One clip was included besides the manual and warranty cards. As it seems to be usual with Crosman packaging, the manual was rolled so I had to roll it in the opposite direction to get it to sit flat. I recommend getting one set of extra clips - they are inexpensive and make recharging easier.
The Crosman revolver is built from metal and plastic. The grips are plastic and attach to a metal frame, the clips are made of plastic, and the barrel is shrouded in plastic. The safety bolt is also plastic, but the rest is metal - the trigger, the hammer, the grip frame, and the barrel. I liked that a metallic piece was also used in the top break locking mechanism to protect the plastic of the shroud. Basically, all essential parts that suffer wear and tear are made of metal or protected by a piece of metal. The only parts that may get worn out are the attachment clips of the grips, but so far I saw no issues with them. This is a very nicely built revolver.
I also like the plastic parts - they look and feel very nice. They also make the 3576W very light, especially when compared with an airgun that uses more metal such as the Smith and Wesson 686.
Adjustable settings
The front sight is fixed, but the rear sight adjusts for both elevation and windage via a couple of screws.
Performance
The 3576W does a very good job of regulating CO2 use and it provides pretty constant power over the use of one powerlet. I can get 80 shots per CO2 cylinder, but after the first 60 shots, the power starts dropping and the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the paper targets, so I stop after 6 clips. This revolver definitely maintains constant power better than the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ.
The Crosman 3576W handles very nicely - I really like the shape of its grips and its light weight also makes it easy to handle it for extended periods. The sights are also very good.
The trigger is crisp and precise in single action mode. In double action mode, it requires a stronger pull, but it still works very predictably - I was quite impressed with the overall performance of the trigger.
Given all the above observations, it should not come as a surprise that the accuracy of the 3576W is excellent and that this revolver is very suitable for target shooting. Everything works great here.
Conclusion
Crosman has engineered another classic airgun in the 3576W. No wonder it is so popular. Even ignoring its very affordable price, this revolver offers pretty much everything that you could expect to find in a CO2 revolver.
I am impressed with Crosman - they offer excellent features in very affordable models.
In my next post, I will attempt to answer the unavoidable question - how does the Crosman 3576W compare to the Umarex Smith and Wesson 686?
The style of the Crosman 3576W revolver draws inspiration from the Colt Python, but it replaces the swing out cylinder mechanism of that revolver with a top break mechanism that I first saw in the S&W Schofield; also, the Python did not seem to have contoured grips, so those are probably inherited from some other revolver model. As such, the 3576W is not a firearm replica - it is just styled to look like a firearm.
Crosman has quite a history of producing CO2 revolvers. The 3576W comes from a series of 357* revolver models that goes back to 1983 - 30 years! I imagine that the "357" part of the name hints to revolvers using the .357 Magnum round and I know that the "6" stands for the 6" barrel, but I do not know what the W is meant to suggest - perhaps higher power compared to previous generation? As with the S&W 686 airgun, this Crosman revolver also used to come in versions having different barrel sizes, but now only the 6" version is available.
Operation
One other aspect where the 3576W shows that it is not a replica is the presence of a safety. This safety takes the form of a bolt that can be pushed in the path of the hammer - to engage it, you have to pull the hammer slightly, to allow the safety to slide in front of it; to take it off, simply push it out of the way of the hammer.
As usual, the CO2 powerlet can be loaded in the grip of the revolver. The grip mechanism is rather unique in that both sides come off. First pull the right side by holding it from the middle and pulling it away - it should detach with little effort and once it comes off, the left side will be easy to remove too. What remains is a grip skeleton that is shaped to receive the CO2 powerlet. The piercing mechanism is a simple screw - this needs to be unscrewed first to make place for the powerlet. After oiling the tip of the CO2 cylinder and placing it in the grip, you can turn back the screw to pierce it. Do that by turning the screw firmly once you feel stronger resistance. As I mentioned in the review of the Walther PPQ, which uses a similar piercing mechanism, I like to turn the screw a bit after it pierces the cylinder, but then I unscrew it just a tiny bit. Now it is time to replace the grips. I do that in the reverse order in which I removed them - I first fit back the left grip and then the right one - when they are fitted correctly, pressing them together will result in a snapping sound and they'll get secured. Removing and putting back the grips requires very little force - if you find it to be otherwise, you are doing something wrong. The grips are made of plastic, so you should never apply excessive force - it is not necessary and it can break the attachment clips.
As mentioned earlier, the clip loading mimics a top break mechanism. To break open the revolver, you need to push a lever on top - keep it pressed while pushing down the barrel and release it only once the barrel is clear of the lock. You can now mount a clip on the short protruding pivot at the back of the barrel. Once a clip is loaded, I press again the top lever while pushing the barrel back to its normal position. I always press the top lever during this operation, to avoid wearing the locking mechanism.
The revolver is now ready to fire either in single action, after cocking the hammer, or in double action with a longer trigger pull.
Package and build
As usual for airguns in its price range, the 3576W came in a plastic wrap that I cut with scissors. One clip was included besides the manual and warranty cards. As it seems to be usual with Crosman packaging, the manual was rolled so I had to roll it in the opposite direction to get it to sit flat. I recommend getting one set of extra clips - they are inexpensive and make recharging easier.
The Crosman revolver is built from metal and plastic. The grips are plastic and attach to a metal frame, the clips are made of plastic, and the barrel is shrouded in plastic. The safety bolt is also plastic, but the rest is metal - the trigger, the hammer, the grip frame, and the barrel. I liked that a metallic piece was also used in the top break locking mechanism to protect the plastic of the shroud. Basically, all essential parts that suffer wear and tear are made of metal or protected by a piece of metal. The only parts that may get worn out are the attachment clips of the grips, but so far I saw no issues with them. This is a very nicely built revolver.
I also like the plastic parts - they look and feel very nice. They also make the 3576W very light, especially when compared with an airgun that uses more metal such as the Smith and Wesson 686.
Adjustable settings
The front sight is fixed, but the rear sight adjusts for both elevation and windage via a couple of screws.
Performance
The 3576W does a very good job of regulating CO2 use and it provides pretty constant power over the use of one powerlet. I can get 80 shots per CO2 cylinder, but after the first 60 shots, the power starts dropping and the pellets no longer cut clean holes in the paper targets, so I stop after 6 clips. This revolver definitely maintains constant power better than the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ.
The Crosman 3576W handles very nicely - I really like the shape of its grips and its light weight also makes it easy to handle it for extended periods. The sights are also very good.
The trigger is crisp and precise in single action mode. In double action mode, it requires a stronger pull, but it still works very predictably - I was quite impressed with the overall performance of the trigger.
Given all the above observations, it should not come as a surprise that the accuracy of the 3576W is excellent and that this revolver is very suitable for target shooting. Everything works great here.
Conclusion
Crosman has engineered another classic airgun in the 3576W. No wonder it is so popular. Even ignoring its very affordable price, this revolver offers pretty much everything that you could expect to find in a CO2 revolver.
I am impressed with Crosman - they offer excellent features in very affordable models.
In my next post, I will attempt to answer the unavoidable question - how does the Crosman 3576W compare to the Umarex Smith and Wesson 686?
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
Umarex Smith and Wesson 686
After the Beretta 92FS and the Walther PPQ, I decided to try two more CO2 airguns that had a great reputation for accuracy. The Umarex Smith and Wesson 586 and 686 revolvers were said to be as good as many target pistols, so they formed option #1.
The only difference between the 586 and the 686 models is that the latter has a nickel body. These revolvers used to come with several barrel sizes and you could even buy the barrels separately to exchange them, but these days only the 4" and 6" versions of the 586 can be found and the 686 only comes in a 6" version, with its 6" barrel also available separately (I wonder why). I picked the 686 because I liked how the nickel contrasted with the black grips and clip, but other than this aspect, I am not aware of any essential differences between these models, so this review will apply just as well to the 586 model.
The sights, with all the adjustments available, are among the best sights I used.
PS: Do you remember that at the beginning of the review I mentioned trying two CO2 airguns? Well, the other one is the Crosman 3576W, which I will review soon - I also plan to compare the two in a separate post.
The only difference between the 586 and the 686 models is that the latter has a nickel body. These revolvers used to come with several barrel sizes and you could even buy the barrels separately to exchange them, but these days only the 4" and 6" versions of the 586 can be found and the 686 only comes in a 6" version, with its 6" barrel also available separately (I wonder why). I picked the 686 because I liked how the nickel contrasted with the black grips and clip, but other than this aspect, I am not aware of any essential differences between these models, so this review will apply just as well to the 586 model.
Operation
The Umarex pistols are revolvers in disguise and thus their operation differs significantly from the firearms they copy. The Smith and Wesson revolvers do not have such problem. The only important difference is that instead of a full cylinder, these replicas use a rotating clip that masks as the front part of the cylinder (and doesn't mask too well on the 686, because the clips are black). The rear part of the cylinder is fixed and its only purpose is to mimic the look of the cylinder.
There is no safety on these revolvers, so it is better to perform the CO2 loading without a clip inserted. To reveal the CO2 compartment, open the lever at the bottom of the grip and then pull out the right grip. The CO2 mechanism is similar to that of the Beretta 92FS. There is a retainer screw that needs to be unscrewed before inserting the gas cylinder. Once that is done, oil the tip of a CO2 powerlet, insert it into the compartment, and tighten back the screw without exerting any force - you are just trying to secure the powerlet, not to pierce it. Once this is done, place back the right grip and then firmly push close the bottom lever - this will pierce the CO2 cylinder. This piercing part is trickier than on the Beretta - I found the grip lever to be harder to close quickly and I even managed to be slow enough in doing it that I once wasted two gas capsules. Just hold the grip tightly with one hand and then press the lever firmly with the other until it snaps shut.
With the CO2 loaded, the next step is to load a clip. Again, I remind you that there is no safety, so stay away from the trigger during this operation. The S&W 686 mimics a swing out cylinder loading mechanism - the clip needs to be loaded on an arm that is unlocked by pushing a lever behind the left side of the cylinder. Swing that arm out all the way, then slide the clip on it and close it back. The revolver is now ready to shoot.
The 686 works either in double action by directly pulling the trigger or in single action, by cocking the hammer and then pulling the trigger.
Package and build
The Smith and Wesson 686 came in a larger plastic case than that of the Beretta 92FS and this is not only because the 686 is a larger airgun, but because there is a lot of space inside. The case feels slightly sturdier than that of the Beretta, but is still not as solid as a Plano case. As usual with Umarex replica cases, the S&W logo is nicely etched on the front of this case. The foam inside is already cut to offer a lot of storage inserts - I am not even sure what they are all meant to hold, but it is better to have more storage options than less. Unlike with the Beretta case, the foam inside the S&W case is glued to it - I like to store the airgun papers under the foam, but I cannot do that here. A manual, a warranty card, safety rules, and a Umarex brochure come in the case. There are also a few accessories - two clips, two front sights of different widths, a barrel removal key, and a barrel cleaning brush.
As usual for the high end Umarex replicas, this airgun is mostly made of metal - the main exceptions are the plastic front sight and the rubber grips.
The plastic front sights are a nice idea. The gun comes with one sight mounted and two others of different widths are included as customization alternatives. I found the one that was mounted to be of the right width for me, but others may find one of the other two alternatives to work better for them.
I liked the intention of these sights but they also happen to generate my only trouble with this gun. One problem is that their base is wider than the metal slot where they were supposed to fit over the barrel, so they cannot be attached in a straight position and instead they end up sitting tilted to one side or the other. This is not what I expected from German manufacturing. I had to remove the sight piece and file the edges of its base, to get it to sit flush with the barrel. Another problem is that the sight is long, is not made of very rigid plastic, and is attached by a single screw - the result is that it moves slightly when touched - this contrasts unpleasantly with the otherwise very solid feel of this airgun. There is no operational impact, however, and this is a much shorter list of issues than I had with the Beretta 92FS.
Front sight aside, the 686 is very solidly built and looks very nice, even better than the Beretta. It is also a very large gun and thus it is quite heavy too.
The clips deserve a bit of commentary as well. They are very solid and heavy and their size permits housing 10 pellets. They only come in black, so there is no nickel version to match the 686, but I actually like the contrast they make with the body of the 686 - they act as a cylinder accent. On the Beretta/Walther style of clips, the ratchet teeth are extending from the clip body, but in these S&W clips, those teeth are recessed, which is very convenient because you can store more than a pair of clips in contact with each other without having any contact (and wear) between those teeth.
Also, many online reviews mentioned that the extra clips that Umarex sells are actually having larger pellet holes than the clips that came with the revolver. If that was an issue at some point, it appears that it has now been resolved - I have seen no difference between the original clips and the extra set I purchased - they are identical.
Adjustable settings
I have already mentioned that the front sights can be changed to adjust their width. In a nice change of pace from the Umarex pistols, the 686 rear sight can now be adjusted for elevation as well as for windage. The adjustments are done by turning a couple of screws, so they can be done with more precision than on many other airguns.
Performance
The 686 behaves very differently from the Beretta and Walther pistols when it comes to CO2 consumption. It seems to regulate the use of CO2 much better, so it keeps almost constant power for 50 shots (5 clips), after which the power will drop abruptly. The first time I used it, I fired 6 clips and about halfway through the 6th one I felt the power dropping severely, so now I stop after 5 clips.
The better CO2 use regulation leads to shots being more powerful than with the Beretta/Walther, so they cut cleaner holes in paper targets and they are louder as well. The 686 is distinctly louder than the other CO2 airguns and in fact it might be the loudest airgun I have.
The sights, with all the adjustments available, are among the best sights I used.
This revolver is indeed very accurate. It lives to the reputation of being as accurate as a target pistol. Only its size and weight prevent me from shooting it as accurately as a target pistol, but without doubt, this is one of the most accurate airguns I have.
Special praise needs to be given to the trigger action. I expected it to be smooth and crisp in single action, but I was very surprised about how nicely the double action worked - it is both light and crisp, so this may well be the best double action available in any airgun pistol or revolver.
Special praise needs to be given to the trigger action. I expected it to be smooth and crisp in single action, but I was very surprised about how nicely the double action worked - it is both light and crisp, so this may well be the best double action available in any airgun pistol or revolver.
Conclusion
The Smith and Wesson 686 sets the standard by which CO2 airguns should be judged. Front sight nitpicking aside, it offers a superb build and operation coupled with excellent accuracy. I would only caution about its size - it could be found to be too large and heavy to use comfortably, but if that is not an issue, I cannot see why anyone would be disappointed with this revolver.
PS: Do you remember that at the beginning of the review I mentioned trying two CO2 airguns? Well, the other one is the Crosman 3576W, which I will review soon - I also plan to compare the two in a separate post.
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